Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
*The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
East Coast Fist Bump T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Full Steam Ahead T 
Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Vietnam Vacation T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Smilin' Jay 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Bloom, Jay M.
Page Views: 1,131
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
up high on smilin jay


Smiling Jay is the first route that local hero David Bloom added to the Waterfall, and to this day remains one of the better warmups on the right wall.

The pitch is characterized by a mostly finger sized crack with plenty of face holds. There is a short section of 5.9+ climbing that is hard to protect at 1/3 height... just after this section are some bomber #.5's. The rock can sound hollow in the middle of the route, but the boulder problem crux is up high on solid rock, and is protected with a bomber medium sized wire. Fun stuff, and a great intro to the Right Wall.


Right wall, middle section, ends on ledge.


Doubles from #1 TCU through .75 Camalot. Medium wires, draws.

Photos of Smilin' Jay Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: middle of route
middle of route
Rock Climbing Photo: Smiling Jay, and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Smiling Jay, and Soldier of Fortune on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
Andrea enjoys her first crack climb on Smilin Jay....
Rock Climbing Photo: smilin j(mo)
smilin j(mo)

Comments on Smilin' Jay Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Nov 13, 2007

It might just be the warm-up, but it's a fun route on quality rock!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!