Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
5 Mile Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baldy 
Big Mouth 
Draw 
Green Face 
Knob, The 
Kung Fu 
Mr Smiley 
Smiley Right 
Surfboard 
Unsorted Routes:

Smiley Right 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Greg G on Mar 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mr Smiley (4 Variations)
  • V5: Start on same holds...

Description 

Start on the Smile, move right to an intermediate or go straight for the jug. Move back left on great incuts and edges finishing in between the Surfboard and OW.

Sit start may add a number grade of difficulty...

Location 

ENE Face of the OW boulder. First problem left of the Classic OW.

Protection 

pad


Photos of Smiley Right Slideshow Add Photo
(1) Two Giant Steps V5/9.  Start pinching the arete with left and on a small sidepull with right.  One long reach to an edge at the top of the ramp for the right, followed by a long reach to a rail. <br />(2) Mr Smiley V6.  Start on same holds as Smiley Right, but then follow the ramp up and left, finishing with a long move to a big, flat edge. <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Variation 1:  V8.  Sit start.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Variation 2:  V5.  Exit right at the top of the ramp.</li></ul><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>Variation 3:  V7:  Sit down and finish on variation 2.</li></ul>(3) Mr Smiley Right V4/5.  Start on the good edge with the left and the sloper with the right.  High step, and make a long move up and right.  Head straight up on jugs.  Using the offwidth to gain the initial jug is V3.  Sit start is V7. <br />(4) Webb's Eliminate V10.  Start sitting, but avoid the ramp holds and head straight up on bad crimps immediately to the left of the offwidth until gaining the jug on Mr Smiley Right.
BETA PHOTO: (1) Two Giant Steps V5/9. Start pinching the aret...
Mr Smiley Right V4/5. Start on the good edge with the left and the sloper with the right. High step, and make a long move up and right. Head straight up on jugs. Using the offwidth to gain the initial jug is V3. Sit start is V7.
BETA PHOTO: Mr Smiley Right V4/5. Start on the good edge with ...
Great problem
Great problem

Comments on Smiley Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By DoNstamos
From: Dumont, CO
Dec 3, 2013

I think this is a great intro to v4/5, don't use the intermediate hold below the first big right hand move!! It knocks a number or two off the problem.