|Castle Rock - East Face
This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.
Climbs the center of rhe southeast face. The dog leg on the second pitch can be seen from the approach.
Quickdraws, a single rack to 2 inches and a set of nuts.
May 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The initial slab was gritty, but the rest was quite clean. I really liked this route. I don't recall it being run out at all.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2013
hmmm, guess I missed the 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom. We climbed the chimney/crack which was pretty fun on sub-par rock (2 & 3 cam was nice). Combined pitch 3&4. Rapped with single 60m.