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 ADVANCED
Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

SMERSH 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: David Goldstein, Dougald MacDonald, Jack Roberts
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,021
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 9, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Despite the back-and-forth appearance of the line ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on Specter, but break right instead of left through the alcove roof about 20 feet off the ground. Step right again and climb a steep crack system. Cruxes at the first roof and at the start of the upper crack system. After the second crux, move right to find a protectable crack, then step back left and continue to the Specter anchors. Above the cruxes is lots of fun 5.9-ish climbing.

This is a continuous, complex, steep, exciting, and excellent lead that required three visits (two for Dave) and some short but bruising falls to complete. Dave got the redpoint. An onsight would be a worthy challenge.

Protection 

One set of wires to about #6; Camalots to #3, with doubles from 0.5 to 2; two yellow Aliens (or equivalents). Plus: A yellow Black Diamond C3 is the perfect piece to protect the first crux, at the right side of the alcove; back it up with a slightly smaller piece. Save two hand-size pieces for the second crux. Use long slings below the roof and on the first piece in the right-hand crack system to eliminate rope drag.


Photos of SMERSH Slideshow Add Photo
Midway in the first crux sequence. Getting into a ...
Midway in the first crux sequence. Getting into a ...

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By Pinklebear
Jun 21, 2014

Fun times—plenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high.