|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||jason brown/dave simms|
|Submitted By:||Jay Brown on Oct 30, 2004|
|Comments on Smell the Meat||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 2, 2007
I led this thing. Kind of spooky since while laying this crack back/ weird heel hooks it is pretty apparent how detached this flake is. I used hands sized gear at the bottom and the wide gear is everything up to an old 5 camelot. The top section requires some hands sized gear as well.
I highly recommend long slings for the cams. I pushed the cams pretty far back in the crack and since the crack angles long slings will alleviate rope drag. There were some very good rest stances to place gear in between the layback moves.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Agree the flake feels heads up, wonder if that gear would hold? Thankfully the layback felt super secure. Fun route with good variety.|