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Smegma Burns T 

Smegma Burns 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don't know
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Christopher Jones on Apr 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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In the nice handcrack after the crux.

Description 

Starts with a couple of face moves up past a bolt to the finger crack. The finger crack gets wider as you climb and turns into good hands by the end of the first pitch. The second pitch starts with a nice unprotected traverse to a wide roof. Climb the roof to good easy hands and the up the slab. Build an anchor. Walk off or rap from Nazi's Demise anchor. Both pitches are very short, I climbed both at once and had a lot of rope drag. Probably best to do it in two.

Location 

Far right side of rock.

Protection 

Small nuts to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Smegma Burns Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the second pitch crux.
Pulling the second pitch crux.
Pitch one.
Pitch one.

Comments on Smegma Burns Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Sills
May 29, 2009

In 2002, we added one bolt to protect first moves and anchor on top of first pitch.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 28, 2009

A fun route that is harder than it appears from below.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 28, 2009

Look out for the booby trap on the unprotected traverse, pure death....

Oh yeah, the walkoff to the right is faster than rapping.
By Alex A
Jul 26, 2011

Fun 1st pitch, but the 2nd pitch traverse is covered in bat shit or is a run out slab, with bad falls for the leader and second, very short pitch, Note the original start is not up the slab with bolt, was surprised the bolt was not chopped, plus it's almost worthless, starts the same as Nazi's Demise, then moves right.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Aug 19, 2012

The choices on the second pitch are guano or run out traverse. Most of us will choose run out. The leader risks slamming back into the right-facing corner and the second risks slamming into the left-facing corner under the roof.
Turns out the feet are decent, so stay low and out of the fecal matter. It's South Platte slab.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
May 24, 2014

I also found that the second pitch is hardly worth doing, but if you must, I suggest doing the traverse, down low, as part of the first pitch and setting up a gear anchor in the corner. This worked well for us today. We also left a stuck nut halfway across in the flake, so it is even protected now (until the flake blows, anyway).