Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,502 total · 8/month
Shared By: rl23455 on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
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Description Suggest change

Start with a funky double crack that forces you to layback. A long reach makes it easier; harder for shorter folks. Once in the crack, climb this until you reach the pruned shrub and step right onto the face. Moderate climbing on sloping crimps and smears and one tricky move takes you to the anchors.

If coming at this from above, you have to duck under the boulder above the Crack Warrior chain anchor. Use the backup bolt to traverse under this until you are situated on the wide ledge above this route.

Location Suggest change

Right side of the Far East Wall ledge, but somehow considered a part of Warrior Wall. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

Protection Suggest change

pro to 2"

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Photos

Smears for Fears. View is from the Orient Express anchor tree. At the Crack Warrior anchor, you can reach these chain anchors. Make your way up the face on thin ledges. A brush is recommended for days following rain.
Smears for Fears. View is from the Orient Expre…
 1
Locating the climbs. To get to this path and to access the Smears for Fears and Crack Warrior chains: At the East end og the guardrail head to the cliff and look to the left. There is a large tree who's roots are next to the cliff which fell towards the road and use to block the trail on top. It was sawn through to access the trail, so just walk over and follow that fallen fir straight towards the cliff (on the trees East side) and turn right onto the obvious, but dangerous path. Then walk on the path, roped up, right next to the cliff heading east to access the Smears for Fears and Crack Warriors chains. The Smears for Fears chains are invisible till you are on that ledge by the rotten dead tree seen in the top of this picture. The lower chains, visible, are the Crack Warrior chains and you can back up both chains and be safe by keeping clipped to the upper bolt visible there. <br> <br> Hope this helps folks out....
Locating the climbs. To get to this path and to…
 1
Smears for Fears chains
Smears for Fears chains
 0

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