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Smears for Fears Area

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Smears for Fears Area  

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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Hegyes on May 9, 2006
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


This area offers shady black varnish for a hot summer day with local test pieces Smears for Fears and Rojo. It is located on the right flank of Frigid Air Buttress.

Getting There 

Approach is the same as for Frigid Air Buttress. Hike the Icebox Canyon trail from the parking area for about 20 minutes. Once the trail dips into a small drainage (Cold September Corner is on the right), follow a trail into the main Icebox wash. Find another trail that heads south out of the wash and up to the base of Frigid Air. Contour up-canyon 30 yards to the Smears for Fears Area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Smears for Fears Area:
Lebanese JoJo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Smears for Fears   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Smears for Fears Area

Featured Route For Smears for Fears Area
The first crux on Smears for Fears.

Smears for Fears 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Smears for Fears Area
One of the sweetest slab routes in red Rocks. Even though this is bolted one should view it as a trad climb as the bolts are fairly far apart and were put in on lead at available stances. The first crux comes about 15 feet up. The next crux is clipping and climbing above the last bolt. Long fall potential here if you skitter off. Once you get your hands on the ledge a quick mantle will slow the heart rate back down and easy 5th class to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

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