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Smear 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch
Consensus: WI3+ [details]
FA: John Bragg and Rick Wilcox (1972-73 season)
Page Views: 1,850
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Smear on Jan 3, 2009.

Description 

From the bottom of the flow climb a short first step and follow a ramp left to the bottom of a steep wall with a pillar. Up the wall to easier slabs and the top. It feels a little more sustained than some other WI3's at Frankenstein. It also seems less traveled which can mean less easy hooking.

We did it in one pitch to the trees at the top with 60m ropes. There is a pine tree on a ledge to the left of the final steep section, but there may be no ice.

Can also climb the sustained steep wall to the right of the ramp when conditions are right. This variation is probably WI4.


Location 

The big flow to the left of Pegasus. Can be reached by a separate path from the tracks, or by going left from Pegasus.


Protection 

Tree belay at top. Rappel from trees.



Comments on Smear Add Comment
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By BALDY
From: Gilmanton, NH
Jan 17, 2010

Although this flow can be ascended using WI3 ramps, you have to go out of your way to avoid the difficulties. The cleanest and most obvious line goes at WI4....Something to keep in mind if your signing up for a 3.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 18, 2010
rating: WI3+

I'll second that, I signed up to lead this as a WI3 leader my first time on it and was supprised to find out just how steep the direct path was. My belayer the whole time reassuring me that I shouldn't be scared, "...it's only a 3"

By Misha Tselman
From: New York, NY
Feb 17, 2010
rating: WI3+

+1 on the above. The direct line up the steep sections is more like a WI4. But ramps can be used to weave your way around the steepest sections, making it a solid WI3.

By Jewell
Feb 8, 2013

Cragged here with a group on Sat, 2/2/13. We finished up around dusk, and it seems that someone in the party may have set down a screw and misplaced it packing up in the dark. It's a BD blue screw, if you stumbled upon it 2/3/13 please let me know.

Cheers!