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Smear of Fear 

WI5 M6 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus: WI5 M4+ [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe, Duncan Ferguson, Malcolm Daly
Season: Fall
Page Views: 12,185
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 6, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The Smear of Fear on 30 September 2006.

Description 

This is the obvious smear to the right of Stettner's Ledges dihedrals. If it reaches the ground, climb directly up. It's usually pretty thin down there when it reaches so be ready for 40' of unprotected climbing. If the Smear doesn't reach, climb in via diagonal thin cracks on the left. Pitch one is the crux either way. Belay above the overlaps from old bolts if they're not covered. Set up an ice belay otherwise. P2 cruises up rolling terrain to a belay under the large roofs. P3 may or may not be there. If it is, follow the ice.

Descent: Rap the route using pins, bolts, v-threads. There can be rock anchors on the right side for 2 x 200' raps. From high up, it may make sense to diagonal over to Stettner's for the descent.


Protection 

Stuff to protect a finger crack (Cams to 1"), Spectres, short ice screws, 17cm ice screws, pins.



Photos of Smear of Fear Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown team 10/13/07.
Unknown team 10/13/07.
Unknown climbers gettin' busy with it. Oct. 13, 2007.
Unknown climbers gettin' busy with it. Oct. 13, 20...
The direct start to the Smear of Fear in Nov. 2002.  Levitation was helpful.
BETA PHOTO: The direct start to the Smear of Fear in Nov. 2002...
Smear of Fear on October 10, 2006. I hiked up in pea soup to scout out some beta and was lucky to get this shot.
BETA PHOTO: Smear of Fear on October 10, 2006. I hiked up in p...
Jim Amidon leading the first pitch of the Smear on 10/5/06.
Jim Amidon leading the first pitch of the Smear on...
Crazy Train, not yet in the database, 10-21-01 in its second week of existence. a pure pleasure. thanks Kelly.
Crazy Train, not yet in the database, 10-21-01 in ...
Taken by Topher Donahue, 1997 or so.
BETA PHOTO: Taken by Topher Donahue, 1997 or so.
Smear on Oct. 17, '09
BETA PHOTO: Smear on Oct. 17, '09
Rappelling off the Smear 10/05/06
Rappelling off the Smear 10/05/06
Been there done that.
Been there done that.
Taken 10/17/2.
Taken 10/17/2.
The Window. Get busy on the Window. 10-16-04.
The Window. Get busy on the Window. 10-16-04.
Tom Dickey moving up the 3rd pitch.  10/02.
Tom Dickey moving up the 3rd pitch. 10/02.
Smear of Fear Oct. 13, 2007
Smear of Fear Oct. 13, 2007
The Smear of Fear on 7 Oct 2007. I noted that only the upper portion of the ice shown here only receives ~30 mins of sunlight. Otherwise, the climb is shaded all day. Bring warm clothes!!
BETA PHOTO: The Smear of Fear on 7 Oct 2007. I noted that only...
BETA PHOTO
After 30' a stubbie screw went in well.  The snowdrift at the bottom made for the best "bouldering" pad.
BETA PHOTO: After 30' a stubbie screw went in well. The snowd...
Comments on Smear of Fear Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2007
By Dale Remsberg
Nov 20, 2002

Climbed the Smear on Tuesday. The bottom is not fat about 1/2 thick. We opted for the 5.10 traverse in from the left. I try tooled it and thought it to be about M5 or so with not great gear. I left 3 pins and 1 nut as they were pretty good, but don't treat them like bolts as they were hare to get and test. Where I hit the ice from the traverse it was about 1 inch quickly growing to take 11 cm srews then 13's shortle thereafter. Thin and delicate to pull the overlap then grade 4+ to the top. The ice is still well bonded the the rock but sublimination is starting to eat it away. The last pitch is now missing, starting at the upper dihedral. I think is normal though. A great route. The snow conditions were good for walking but be aware of wind slabs near the route as they are growing quickly.

Dale

By Edward Corder II
Aug 3, 2003

I climbed the Smear in 2002 and left 3 scews 15 feet below the 3th pitch anchors. I would love to get these items back. Reward if found.

By Tom Dickey
Sep 29, 2003

Smear is in-- did it yesterday. not bonded to the rock well, and parts were threatening to come off, but is still forming.

By Tom Dickey
Oct 13, 2003

Smear of Fear is gone-- the first pitch sublimated a two nights ago with the heavy chinook winds.

By Tom Dickey
Oct 13, 2003

The first pitch of the Smear sublimated two nights ago in the strong chinook winds.

By Eric May
Oct 19, 2003

Went to the Smear yesterday to see if it had come back in at all...and the answer is nope! The section below the second roof has no ice at all. It's gonna be awhile...maybe even next season.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 11, 2004

Don't think the Smear is going to happen this year guys. It is rumored to have been done, but that is quite unlikely especially considering the party that is said to have done it. The route has looked like it is going to fall down for about a month with no new ice in that time period. Two Estes locals climbed a new route near the Window last weekend. It is said to sport a couple of pitches of very steep ice and mixed. No word on how much new snow is up there after yesterday, but things are definately begining to sublimate away above tree line.

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 28, 2007

Perhaps route beta and conditions reports would be best provided after it's been climbed. That's just my opinion, I could be wrong?