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Begin just right of Disrythmia and make some very delicate (12-) moves into a concavity, followed by overhanging jugs (11-). The crux at the start is well-protected, and very balancey (like a V4 boulder problem). Once you solve this, you're into some steep face climbing on nice patina jugs.
Starts from the far left end of the big ramp on the extreme left side of Little Hunk's East face, about 50 feet up the ramp to the left of The New Deal.
6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, 1 to 2 inch gear anchor for start.
BETA PHOTO: Disrythmia (L) and Smear Factor (R)
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
Crux is sport bolted, which is good because the crux will likely take a number of tries to figure out.. good route, slab test piece.