Smear Campaign  WI3

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Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  WI3 [details] FA:  Brian Cabe and Brian Smoot New Route:  Yes Season:  winter Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Mar 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Brian on Smear Campaign. Photo by Brian.

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Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach MORE INFO >>> Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out. The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues. All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Single 130 foot pitch to a bolted belay/rappel anchor. Much lower angle with step rests compared to the steeper "Fling" route to the right.

Location 

At the far left end of Orangutan Wall. Located to the left of Get Whacked. In Jason’s ice guide, this would be the left hand route listed as Route 5, "two potential routes (thin smears)". Just to the right of a small right facing corner. Tops out below a short rock tower in a shallow alcove.

Protection 

Selection of short ice screws. Sling for bush/small tree.