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Wiggins' Wall
Routes Sorted
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Fringe of Death S 
Green Squared S 
Mo Verde S 
Moon Age S 
Smear Campaign S 
Youth, The S 

Smear Campaign 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, and Mike Heinrichs, Sept. 2004
Page Views: 1,166
Submitted By: Anna Moore on Jul 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Peyton (8) enjoys a nice smear.

Description 

From the guidebook: Excellent moderate route on the right side of the face. Begin by scrambling up to a 1-bolt anchor in a scoop below central wall. Traverse right on third class rock for 60 feet to a bolt at a small belay stance. Smear up the undulating slab above to a headwall. Work up right along a line of flakes to a hole with a large crystal-line xenolith ("strange rock"). Anchors are on a narrow shelf above.

Caution: The flake towards the top is loose.

Location 

This route is the farthest right route on Wiggins' Wall. You can find it from the shady area by scrambling up the rock and traversing (approximately 60 feet) to the right, you'll see the belay bolt roughly 30-45 feet from the dirt line (bear in mind erosion may increase this distance). It's definitely decent 3rd class hiking to get there. The anchors when you look at the rock will be just to the left of the bushes that have a small outcropping below them.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (there is a belay bolt as well, and it's pretty high up and could be mistaken to the first bolt).


Photos of Smear Campaign Slideshow Add Photo
Logan Berndt leading Smear Campaign.
Logan Berndt leading Smear Campaign.
Narrow path around the base of the wall at the foo...
Narrow path around the base of the wall at the foo...
Smearing on gritty rock.    FYI: There is only 1 a...
Smearing on gritty rock. FYI: There is only 1 a...
Looking down from the anchors on "Smear Campa...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the anchors on "Smear Campa...
Stewart Green belaying.
Stewart Green belaying.
James leading Smear Campaign.  I just had to be a ...
James leading Smear Campaign. I just had to be a ...
Exercising proper conservation techniques. We can ...
Exercising proper conservation techniques. We can ...

Comments on Smear Campaign Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Carlino
Aug 4, 2006

We found it easier to get to the "belay bolt" by just walking on the ground until we were below it. Then follow easy rock up to it. It's really not too far and seemed easier and more secure than traversing in from the left.

The route is really good. It begins with some thin (no hands) moves and changes to decent hand holds for the second half.
By Stewart M. Green
Jan 10, 2009

It's best to traverse right across the slabs from the bolt on the ledge below "Mo Verde" and "The Youth", because there is a lot of poison ivy along the base of the cliff. It can get ya even in winter. Also, don't flake your rope out down there unless you want the dreaded PI on it too....
By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Mar 17, 2010

I wish I would have read about the poison ivy before doing the route, but it wasn't in the book and I did not really see any when doing it today. We did what Ryan did, because it seemed easier and much more natural. Good route that was easier than its neighbor to the south (Mo Verde).
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We just belayed from the base of the ledge. Did not see any poison ivy (of course, that could mean we got it!). Good climb -- thanks for putting it up, Stewart! We had a 70m rope and both rapped down after the climb -- a 70m will not reach the ledge, but it's just about a 10' downclimb on easy rock. Tie knots in the end of your rope!
By tyler dane mahaffey
From: aspen, co
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

In the guidebook, it says that you can climb these routes with a 60m rope, which I tried -_-

Obviously, that was a stupid move, because they mention the routes are 100'+ tall, but then they say (60m rope).

Do NOT climb this area unless you have a 70m!

ALL of the routes are 100'+.
By Stewart M. Green
Nov 7, 2014

If you start from the belay bolt about 30 feet up the easy slab, then the route is easily climbed and rappelled with a 200-foot (60-meter) rope. Scramble straight right along a sloping shelf from the base of Mo' Verde to the anchor or climb directly up from the base to it. It is preferable to belay at the bolt rather than at the base of the cliff because of poison ivy....