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Pitch 4 of Smashmouth.
Worthwhile route, well set up with modern anchors, can be climbed and descended with one 60m rope.
P1. 5.11a, Short, stout tight hands leads to easier climbing.
P2. 5.10c, Tricky bolted face leads to easier hand/ finger crack.
P3. 5.10b, Beautiful fingers and hands supplemented with plentiful face holds.
P4. 5.11a, More of the same, with short crux at the end protected by bristler.
Note either pitch 2&3 or 3&4 could easily be linked (recommended)
Supertopo rack description is a tad overkill.
2x Blue, yellow, orange metolius. .75, 1 BD. 1x 2,3 BD. 1x nuts. Add 1 extra yellow and orange metolius if you want to link pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Smashmouth topo
BETA PHOTO: smashmouth follows the obvious zigzagging splitter...
pitch 1 corner
top of pitch 2
looking up pitch 4
Pitch one thin hands. It looks fingerish here, but...
May 25, 2010
This is an excellent route. The top 2 pitches are outstanding! Although the 5.11+ rating in the Supertopo guide did seem seem a bit excessive, I wouldn't call it 11- either. My pitch-by pitch ratings were:
Regardless of the rating, this route is heaps of fun.
|By Jay Brown|
Mar 8, 2011
5.11 route. the bolt at the top was also unnecessary. sweet outing!
|By Joe Sambataro|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2011
Amazing route! I agree with Mike's pitch break down: 10+, 10+, 11- and 11. Agreed, bolt isn't necessary at the top of the 4th pitch. I also concur that SuperTopo rack list is a bit overkill but the post here is a little sparse for the average 5.11 climber. I would recommend:
2 green aliens
4 yellow aliens/TCUs
6 red aliens/0.5 camalots
Doubles from .75 to #2, and nothing bigger.
Set of nuts optional (not a lot of constrictions in this splitter!)
Linking pitch 2 & 3 or 3 & 4 is definitely possible if you are ok running it out a bit or if you bring extra mid size cams as listed above.
|By Angela Mabe|
Apr 2, 2012
wow! awesome route! i thought that the 3rd pitch was the crux, 4th pitch was just as amazing and the 2nd pitch was so fun, i was giggling like a kid in a candy shop. def a must do :)
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2012
Better than Fine Jade in Castle Valley. Not to split hairs, but my pitch breakdown would be more like:
P1: 10+/11- stiff out of the gate, jamming the hollow flake. Watch for drag. 100'
P2: 10- elegant traversing face moves, and secure crack climbing with great feet. 70'
P3: 11 sustained bits of left-leaning fingers, some sharp thin hand jams and smears for you left foot. 75'
P4: 11- excellent with good rests and cool finishing sequence. I also thought this pitch was easier than the 3rd and I didn't mind clipping the bolt. What's a bristler? 65'
Joe's gear suggestion worked well, though i used
Aliens: yellow, grey, red
(4) 0.5 C4
(2) 0.75 C4
(2) 1 C4
(2) 2 C4
I actually would have liked a #3 camalot in a few spots, but is not necessary.
|By steven sadler|
From: south jordan, UT
Jul 19, 2012
would anyone disagree with me removing that unnecessary bolt on pitch 4?
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Jul 19, 2012
I'll bet a certain Bird, French, Draper, and Greer would be opposed.
|By Caleb Padgett|
From: Rockville, utah
Jul 26, 2012
Steven, if you PM me I can get you the contact info of all the first ascenionists. I would urge you not to remove the bolt until you spoke with them. Until then, just don't clip it. Cheers.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 25, 2012
Approach beta: The directions to this climb here or on the main confluence page seem nonexistent. From the turnout at the last switchback before the tunnel, hike west on a good trail for 10 or so minutes until the wall turns from north to west facing. Hike another 10 minutes along the wall's base past the gorgeous thin splitter "Crimson King", trending down till you can see the dark face with the splitter with a roof above it . The pictures posted here are very helpful. You can see the visitor center from the base of the climb. If the wall turns back north facing you've gone too far.
Weird how ratings/gear recommendation are all over the board on this one. The poster suggest 2 .5 camalots or equivalent, while another commenter suggests 6? After doing the route, let me say this: if you only bring 2, you'll be desperate, if you bring 6, you'll likely have 3 still sitting on your harness at the next belay. As for rating, Crimson King is way harder than any of the 5.11 pitches on SM, so I give this climb 11a. Hanging stances on p3 and p4, easy rap with one rope.
2 red c3
3 .3 camalot
4-5 .4 camalot
4-5 .5 camalot
99% of the gear for pitches 2-4 is in this range of sizes
-for pitch 1 only
1 .75 camalot
2 #1 camalot
1 #2 camalot
1 #3 camalot
|By Phil Esra|
Mar 31, 2013
Agree with Spencer about approach (though took us more time) and rack. Bring a pile of BD .4 to .5 or orange Metolii. Lots of decent stances for back cleaning if needed--that's what I did. Placed one medium nut total.
Looked all over the top of p4 for something that looked like a "bristler" but could not find it. Maybe it was trundled, or broke off.
|By Mary Harlan|
From: Aspen, CO
Apr 20, 2013
Great route- definitely no harder than .11a, and I would say 4 .5 cams, 4 .4 cams, no #3 cam. Loved it!