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Smashmouth 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bird, French, Draper, Greer
Page Views: 4,971
Submitted By: Colin Moorhead on May 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Pitch one thin hands. It looks fingerish here, but...

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Description 

Worthwhile route, well set up with modern anchors, can be climbed and descended with one 60m rope.

P1. 5.11a, Short, stout tight hands leads to easier climbing.

P2. 5.10c, Tricky bolted face leads to easier hand/ finger crack.

P3. 5.10b, Beautiful fingers and hands supplemented with plentiful face holds.

P4. 5.11a, More of the same, with short crux at the end protected by bristler.

Note either pitch 2&3 or 3&4 could easily be linked (recommended)

Protection 

Supertopo rack description is a tad overkill.

2x Blue, yellow, orange metolius. .75, 1 BD. 1x 2,3 BD. 1x nuts. Add 1 extra yellow and orange metolius if you want to link pitches.


Photos of Smashmouth Slideshow Add Photo
Smashmouth topo
BETA PHOTO: Smashmouth topo
pitch 3
pitch 3
smashmouth follows the obvious zigzagging splitter up this face.
BETA PHOTO: smashmouth follows the obvious zigzagging splitter...
Pitch 4 of Smashmouth.
Pitch 4 of Smashmouth.
pitch 1 corner
pitch 1 corner
looking up pitch 4
looking up pitch 4
top of pitch 2
top of pitch 2
Striking a pose on p4
Striking a pose on p4

Comments on Smashmouth Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2014
By Mike
From: Phoenix
May 25, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is an excellent route. The top 2 pitches are outstanding! Although the 5.11+ rating in the Supertopo guide did seem seem a bit excessive, I wouldn't call it 11- either. My pitch-by pitch ratings were:
P1: 10+
P2: 10+
P3: 11-
P4: 11

Regardless of the rating, this route is heaps of fun.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Mar 8, 2011

5.11 route. the bolt at the top was also unnecessary. sweet outing!
By Joe Sambataro
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 23, 2011

Amazing route! I agree with Mike's pitch break down: 10+, 10+, 11- and 11. Agreed, bolt isn't necessary at the top of the 4th pitch. I also concur that SuperTopo rack list is a bit overkill but the post here is a little sparse for the average 5.11 climber. I would recommend:

2 green aliens
4 yellow aliens/TCUs
6 red aliens/0.5 camalots
Doubles from .75 to #2, and nothing bigger.
Set of nuts optional (not a lot of constrictions in this splitter!)

Linking pitch 2 & 3 or 3 & 4 is definitely possible if you are ok running it out a bit or if you bring extra mid size cams as listed above.
By Angela Mabe
From: Flagstaff,AZ
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

wow! awesome route! i thought that the 3rd pitch was the crux, 4th pitch was just as amazing and the 2nd pitch was so fun, i was giggling like a kid in a candy shop. def a must do :)
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Better than Fine Jade in Castle Valley. Not to split hairs, but my pitch breakdown would be more like:
P1: 10+/11- stiff out of the gate, jamming the hollow flake. Watch for drag. 100'
P2: 10- elegant traversing face moves, and secure crack climbing with great feet. 70'
P3: 11 sustained bits of left-leaning fingers, some sharp thin hand jams and smears for you left foot. 75'
P4: 11- excellent with good rests and cool finishing sequence. I also thought this pitch was easier than the 3rd and I didn't mind clipping the bolt. What's a bristler? 65'

Joe's gear suggestion worked well, though i used
(2)0.3 C4
(2)0.4 C4
Aliens: yellow, grey, red
(4) 0.5 C4
(2) 0.75 C4
(2) 1 C4
(2) 2 C4

I actually would have liked a #3 camalot in a few spots, but is not necessary.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 19, 2012

would anyone disagree with me removing that unnecessary bolt on pitch 4?
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 19, 2012

I'll bet a certain Bird, French, Draper, and Greer would be opposed.
By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Jul 26, 2012

Steven, if you PM me I can get you the contact info of all the first ascenionists. I would urge you not to remove the bolt until you spoke with them. Until then, just don't clip it. Cheers.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Nov 25, 2012

Approach beta: The directions to this climb here or on the main confluence page seem nonexistent. From the turnout at the last switchback before the tunnel, hike west on a good trail for 10 or so minutes until the wall turns from north to west facing. Hike another 10 minutes along the wall's base past the gorgeous thin splitter "Crimson King", trending down till you can see the dark face with the splitter with a roof above it . The pictures posted here are very helpful. You can see the visitor center from the base of the climb. If the wall turns back north facing you've gone too far.

Weird how ratings/gear recommendation are all over the board on this one. The poster suggest 2 .5 camalots or equivalent, while another commenter suggests 6? After doing the route, let me say this: if you only bring 2, you'll be desperate, if you bring 6, you'll likely have 3 still sitting on your harness at the next belay. As for rating, Crimson King is way harder than any of the 5.11 pitches on SM, so I give this climb 11a. Hanging stances on p3 and p4, easy rap with one rope.

Gear:
6 qd's
2 red c3
3 .3 camalot
4-5 .4 camalot
4-5 .5 camalot
99% of the gear for pitches 2-4 is in this range of sizes

-for pitch 1 only
1 .75 camalot
2 #1 camalot
1 #2 camalot
1 #3 camalot
By Phil Esra
Mar 31, 2013

Agree with Spencer about approach (though took us more time) and rack. Bring a pile of BD .4 to .5 or orange Metolii. Lots of decent stances for back cleaning if needed--that's what I did. Placed one medium nut total.

Looked all over the top of p4 for something that looked like a "bristler" but could not find it. Maybe it was trundled, or broke off.
By Mary Harlan
From: Basalt, CO
Apr 20, 2013

Great route- definitely no harder than .11a, and I would say 4 .5 cams, 4 .4 cams, no #3 cam. Loved it!
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2013

Spencer's beta is right on, as always. The goods are .4-.5 BD or yellow/orange metolii (didn't know that was plural; thanks Phil). So, bring lots of those sizes, and a single set of other cams (except 2 #1 camalots for the start). Leave the nuts at home.

Each pitch is VERY short. Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined if you're creative at managing drag, otherwise do them as two pitches. Pitches two and three can be combined, but what's the point since the top of pitch 3 is a full-on hanging belay? I recommend doing the first two pitches as advertised, and combining 3 and 4. There is really no need not to do so, unless you don't have the right gear. So, brings heaps of .4-.5 camalots and you can cruise P3-P4 as one pitch easily. Easy rap with a single 60. Enjoy this beauty!
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Nov 11, 2013

Has anyone done this route in late November or early December? Or just in the winter anytime? Just wondering if it is in the sun long enough to be doable in the cold.
By Brian Hestetune
From: Logan, UT
Dec 11, 2013

Me and my friend did the route on Nov 29th. It was warm that weekend, (highs at 60?). It gets pretty good sun in the afternoon, but I imagine from the angle of the rock that the sun will hit it later and later as we get further into winter. We are the slowest climbers there are, and it took us 3-4 hours to complete (including rappelling). So that should still allow for at least a slightly shaded start with a sunny finish. It seemed like this climb gets sun almost an hour+ after the Crimson King does.

Also, on rappelling, with our 70m rope, we were able to rap in three raps: top of p4 to top of p3, top of p3 to the top of p1 (with a few feet to spare), and p1 to the ground.
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 27, 2014

The beginning of the first pitch was not obvious to me. I think I was too far right? At any rate it was chossy and dirty. Is there scrambling required to get to the thin hands crack and beginning of the route?
By Brian Hestetune
From: Logan, UT
Feb 4, 2014

Last I was there, there was a fairly beat in path that traverses left and then back right to the top of a pedestal-like feature. You then go up a short wideish right facing corner that takes you to a ledge and to the left slanting splitter thin hands crack (Two discontinuous cracks in one of the pictures above). The thin hands crack is relatively short and tops out to another ledge with a large bush on it, traverse right to the left facing corner with a buldge at the top. First pitch anchors are on top of that.
By Alec
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is a superb route, as good as if not better than the The Headache, with a similar length. Catches sun by around 1:30 in late March. I found p3 to be the crux, sustained fingers with few good rests. Linking p3/4 would make for one hell of a pitch, amongst the best in the entire Park.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Do yourself a favor, link 3 + 4 and don't clip the unnecessary bolt high on P4 for one hell of a pitch!