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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
Routes Sorted
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Beeker T 
Bumble Bee T 
Dystonia T 
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Hannah Flower T 
Jack Knife  T 
Jack O'Lantern T 
Jesus Nut T 
Lost in Utopia T 
Makamah Road T 
Maze T 
Ora the Explorer  T 
Rumney Rocks Climb T 
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Smashing Pumpkins T 
Stones , The T 

Smashing Pumpkins 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 24, 2012

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Start here and keep on truckin up the middle or yo...


Start above the bottom of slab that has lichen and big holds or start above the lichen by traversing onto the slab. Go straight up at indent and the slab gets harder to climb as you go. The crux is above the indent. Make your way up to a horizontal seam (useless for fingers). It becomes a shallow finger crack by traversing right, then the heart rush is over. The slab remains steep or steeper at the seam. I bailed out over to Jack O'lantern. It goes on steeper for ten more feet. The slab is open for some distance below and falling at the crux with a rope this goes to boulders and trees, you might live. Free soloed it safe and secure by escaping from directly finishing it. This was not supposed happen.


Left, lower start to Jack O'lantern Slab.


No pro except at the seam crack, one of the smallest flexible TCU's should fit it or a short lost arrow. Finish up Jack O'lantern or go a little higher to down climb the (5.1) diagonal traverse ramp that meets up with the crack.

Photos of Smashing Pumpkins Slideshow Add Photo
I exited before the white slab. White slab is very...
I exited before the white slab. White slab is very...

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