Smash n Grab  5.11c/d

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 85 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Eric Berghorn New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  eric berghorn on Feb 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Eric Berghorn and Jerry Dodrill on Smash n Grab 5....

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Description 

P1- Start at the base of the lower "Bear Arete" climbing route, passing beneath that route and scrambling up a low angle corner for about 25 feet, gaining a good stance on top of a small but obvious ledge. From here you can clip the first of 11 bolts, moving straight up through a buldging head wall replete with awkward liebacking on hidden holds. There are a couple of ways you can go when climbing through the overhanging first section of the route. The most direct option is 5.11 a/b.

P2- Gain the low-angled sloping ledge clipping the optional rappel/belay anchor above it. If climbing the route in one pitch continue straight up past more 5 bolts climbing carefully above the mid-anchor into a steep, awkward corner slightly right of the bolt line. Be careful here as you are climbing above a ledge out of view from your belayer. The 5.11 c/d moves are protected, however, too much slack here could result in a ledge fall. Powerful moves combined with thin awkward face climbing lead to some good pockets/jugs and a decent rest before tackling the crux. After a good rest stance above the crux, the top section eases off slightly but offers some thoughtful moves on yet another vertical section before a good ledge and the anchor are reached. Use long slings when appropriate to reduce rope drag if climbing the route in a single pitch.

Location 

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock.

Protection 

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.11a overhanging face.