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Routes in (4) Music Hall
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Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Nose Valentino T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broad Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Comeback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fucking Fall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moby Dick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wedding Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 684 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Jun 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
A more challenging extension of Wedding Route that takes you to the top of the cliff. There is a big triangular roof to the right of the anchors, hence the name (小三 means "mistress" in colloquial Mandarin). Step out onto the face below the roof and into the short layback crack. This is a very exposed, exciting move for the grade, and protection can be a little tenuous, but it's definitely there. Pull through this to the horizontal below the roof. Traverse right and mantel onto the ledge. Continue up an easy, possibly loose dihedral to the cliff top. The anchor is a rope run through tubular webbing that is slung around two boulders on top of each other with two titanium rap rings. It will be solid for many years to come.
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