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Small Purchase 
Texas Longneck 

Small Purchase 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst & Mark Moore
Page Views: 3,173
Submitted By: John Wilder on May 27, 2005
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Small Purchase

Description 

This neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.

The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.

Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work your way up and ascend the corner. Be careful of the loose block near the top.

A single rope rappel gets you back down.


Protection 

Bring a fair assortment of stoppers and doubles of smallish stuff to a #.75 camalot. Single cams to 3" is good, a 4" wont hurt you, but is not required.



Photos of Small Purchase Slideshow Add Photo
Small Purchase
BETA PHOTO: Small Purchase
Fran places a piece just before firing up a crux section on Small Purchase.
Fran places a piece just before firing up a crux s...
Small Purchase
Small Purchase
Nearing the top of Small Purchase.
Nearing the top of Small Purchase.
Comments on Small Purchase Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Julie Haas & I replaced the anchor last week. Two old 3/8" bolts up high were connected to a 1/4" bolt down low, and right of the 1/4" bolt was a 1/2" deep 3/8" hole with lichen growing in it. I removed the 1/4" bolt, redrilled the hole, then continued the old 3/8" hole, for a 2-new-bolt anchor. For the old 3/8" bolts, the right one broke easily, and I just removed the hanger on the other one, which is a relatively new 3/8" split-shaft compression bolt. These will not break and must be pulled or hacksawed, and I didn't have the appropriate gear for either, so it's still there without a hanger.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 23, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Thank you! One of the best pitches in the park! I had the pleasure of doing this one after your renovations; Thanks again for the anchor :-)