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Small Package Block Rock Climbing

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Routes in Small Package Block

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bureau Headquarters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	CIA (Cannabis in Action) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cough it Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	King of the Hill S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Quick Hit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wake 'n Bake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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GPS:	40.0025, -105.3878 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Ivan Rezucha on Nov 3, 2005
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Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob closed 2/1/24 Details

Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey

Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.

From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.

Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

Small Package Block (SPB) has 5 distinct but very short routes listed in Mark Rolofson's 2000 guide, ranging from 5.7 trad to 10a sport to 11a trad plus two climbs listed as projects in the 5.12-5.13 range. All routes are by Mark Rolofson, including the two bolted projects, with the exception of the 5.7 Cough it Up which Mark lists as FA unknown. SPB is worth a short visit. Perhaps the best thing to do is stop there on the hike down from a multi-pitch route on the main Blob wall, eg, Tempest, On Ballet, etc.

SPB is in the running for the smallest crag in terms of surface area (excluding bouldering areas). In terms of total climbing length, it may not be the smallest. I'm thinking of, eg, Higher Security Risk, that has just 3 short routes, but routes that are longer than those at SPB.

SPB has two 2-bolt anchors with rings. The two anchors are only a few feet apart. You can easily scramble to the top to set up a TR.

L->R:

A. Cough it Up, 7, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Quick Hit, 9, 1p, 30', gear.
C. Wake 'n Bake, 10-, 1p, 30', bolts.
D. CIA (Cannabis in Action), 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
E. Bureau Headquarters, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
F. King of the Hill, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Bong Water, 12, 1p.

Getting There

See Blob Rock for the parking and the approach to Blob Rock. Hike up the approach trail to Blob to the base of the gully area. Walk left below the main Blob wall. You'll see a prominent right facing corner. That's Divine Wind, 11a. Continue gently uphill past a number of short sport climbs, some extremely short. That's Comedy Wall. Beyond that the wall becomes low angle and soon it becomes possible to scramble up and right. You'll see a small outcrop with three right leaning cracks, the rightmost having a prominent white streak on its right side. That's Small Package Block. You'll walk right past Small Package Block as you descend to the west from the top of the multi-pitch climbs on the main Blob wall, such as The Tempest.