Small Package Block  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  1,628. Good page?    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Nov 4, 2005 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue 79° | 50° 81° | 52° 82° | 48° 75° | 46° 72° | 45°

Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Small Package Block.

Description 

Small Package Block (SPB) has 5 distinct but very short routes listed in Mark Rolofson's 2000 guide, ranging from 5.7 trad to 10a sport to 11a trad plus two climbs listed as projects in the 5.12-5.13 range. All routes are by Mark Rolofson, including the two bolted projects, with the exception of the 5.7 Cough it Up which Mark lists as FA unknown. SPB is worth a short visit. Perhaps the best thing to do is stop there on the hike down from a multi-pitch route on the main Blob wall, eg, Tempest, On Ballet, etc.

SPB is in the running for the smallest crag in terms of surface area (excluding bouldering areas). In terms of total climbing length, it may not be the smallest. I'm thinking of, eg, Higher Security Risk, that has just 3 short routes, but routes that are longer than those at SPB.

SPB has two 2-bolt anchors with rings. The two anchors are only a few feet apart. You can easily scramble to the top to set up a TR.

L->R:

A. Cough it Up, 7, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Quick Hit, 9, 1p, 30', gear.
C. Wake 'n Bake, 10-, 1p, 30', bolts.
D. CIA (Cannabis in Action), 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
E. Bureau Headquarters, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
F. King of the Hill, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Bong Water?, 12

Getting There 

See Blob Rock for the parking and the approach to Blob Rock. Hike up the approach trail to Blob to the base of the gully area. Walk left below the main Blob wall. You'll see a prominent right facing corner. That's Divine Wind, 11a. Continue gently uphill past a number of short sport climbs, some extremely short. That's Comedy Wall. Beyond that the wall becomes low angle and soon it becomes possible to scramble up and right. You'll see a small outcrop with three right leaning cracks, the rightmost having a prominent white streak on its right side. That's Small Package Block. You'll walk right past Small Package Block as you descend to the west from the top of the multi-pitch climbs on the main Blob wall, such as The Tempest.

The Classics

Featured Route For Small Package Block

CIA (Cannabis in Action) 5.10d  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Small Package Block

CIA climbs the steep, right-leaning layback/jam crack just right of the arete that separates the left and right faces. I thought this was the best route on the crag. Although short, it felt like real climbing. I TR'd it on self-belay, and laybacked much of it with my left hand on the arete. It felt easier than 10d, Rolofson's rating, maybe 10b. Laybacking should be feasible on the lead, since there's a couple of good spots where you can stop and place gear....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Small Package Block.

BETA PHOTO: Blob Rock Area. Original photo by Jack Wyatt.