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Small heel sheos for bouldering
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By nick.arc
Jan 20, 2013

Everytime I attempt a heel hook, my shoe performing the move seems to slip off. I'm using a pair of Evolv Predators now. My front is very comfortable, but my heel is absolutely terrible. the entire back part of my shoes stick out occupied by air.

I'm looking for a small heel shoe. Preferably one for bouldering; or at least with a downcurve sole and a sharp point for edging and small footholds.

Any ideas? I was thinking of getting the Scarpa Vapor V or La Sportiva Miura VS. Open to other suggestions as well.


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By tsmartt
Jan 20, 2013

the miura laces have an excellent heel. i'd imagine the velcro's heel is pretty close.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jan 20, 2013

evolvs are notorious for a bad heel. if they fit you really well, try the Shaman or Shaman LV- easily the best heel cup Evolv has.

otherwise, Sportiva would be my next choice. Or Scarpa. Bouldering specifically- Solution, Muira VS, Boostic, Feroce.


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By Jared Garfield
Jan 20, 2013
Romancing the Stone

I think solutions are the way to go for bouldering


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By frankstoneline
Jan 20, 2013

I think this is quite fit specific depending on foot shape.
Solutions are good, though I haven't been as impressed with them as most people seem to be.
You might look into a low volume or womens version of some shoes.
Miura vs is a great shoe and the heel seems to fit quite well for a lot of folks (myself included)

if they fit your heel the arrowhead might be worth checking out, when sized appropriately I think I get some of the best heelhooking out of my anasazi's


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By nick.arc
Jan 21, 2013

Anybody have any experience with Mad Rock Flash? They seem to fit my feet, on words at least.


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jan 21, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

I love the vapor-v for heel hooks. I am not impressed with solutions for heels, mostly due to the yellow rubber which doesn't stick very well.

Mad rocks are for gumbies and sponsored climbers only. (IMVHO).


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
Jan 21, 2013
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

nick.arc wrote:
Anybody have any experience with Mad Rock Flash? They seem to fit my feet, on words at least.


Nick, the Flash is likely not what you are looking for, at least based on your first post. It is a flatter shoe as opposed to downturned. If you are interested in looking at a shoe from the Mad Rock line, based on what you mention at the beginning I would check out the Concept . At any rate, you might want to look into lace up's, if you are having trouble getting the heal to stay on, though it sounds like you are not getting your heal all the way into the heal cup (if there is an air pocket below your heal) or the shoe is too big (if there is dead space behind your heal).

Don't worry too much about what people say about one company being the way to go over another, for them it might be true, but your foot is not theirs and the most important thing t=is that the shoe fits your foot properly. If you can avoid mail order as well it will allow you to actually try on the shoes and verify that they fit correctly as opposed to simply buying into the hype that a shoe may receive.


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