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The Chamber
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Mac S 
Brown Chossum Special, The S 
Churchill Rejects S 
Cruiser S 
Drawn and Quartered S 
Green Lantern S 
In Between the Sheets S 
Jestor S 
Last in Show S 
Love it or Hate it S 
Over The Ramparts S 
Poudre Pie S 
Rack, The S 
Road to Redemption S 
Rusty Shackleford S 
Sanctus S 
Small Fry S 
Unsorted Routes:

Small Fry 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Peavey, Wilhelmi, Gibson
Page Views: 2,477
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Aug 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Small Fry and Green Lantern

Description 

Thin is the name of the game on this balancy route. Start on some big holds that are fairly reachy then move to the thin stuff.

The crux comes about in the middle off of teeny tiny crimps to a balancy slopping side pull/undercling. Then to more reasonably small crimps.

Did I mention the food work? Bring that too. Good feet are few and far between. Tricky and fun route.

Location 

Go up to the top of the Chamber. It's the fifth to the last bolted route, and it is right of Green Lantern (the route that's covered in green rock).

Protection 

7 bolts to two anchors with chains.


Photos of Small Fry Slideshow Add Photo
Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.
Randy finishing up the easier moves on Small Fry.
Sam cruxing.
Sam cruxing.

Comments on Small Fry Add Comment
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By Nat T.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 29, 2012

Great route! Great for a first 5.12-, yay! It is definitely thin in the middle. Just like the description says, use the sloper sidepull and then onto thin crimps. The foot holds here are non-existent, so you have to be creative. I found stemming out to the left helped a bit, and by stem it's almost a split. Once you pull through the move, there's a thank god hold right above you. Then pull in all your glory to the chains!
By Katy90
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 29, 2012

Fun! My first 5.12 (TR). My fingers are still throbbing, so I'll make this short. I took a slight variation from the sloping sidepull and instead found an awesome crimper a foot away, directly left of that hold.