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Hidden Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dangler, The 
Hidden Falls (main) 
Kiddie Flow (Far Left) 
Small Flow (left) 
Small Flow (right) 

Small Flow (right) 

WI4-5 M5+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus: WI4-5 M5 [details]
FA: Malcolm Daly?
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jan 26, 2002
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Small Flow (R) on 9 Feb 2014.

Description 

This is the flow that forms to the right of the main flow. It is shorter and is sometimes thin.

Eds. there is a rock finish that involes some barndoor moves.


Protection 

This route can be thin. Bring some short and medium screws.

For the rock finish, consider some cams up to #4 Camalot.


Toprope Protection 

Ice screws. There are some cracks at the top but some of them are rotten. To TR this route, it is best to lead it first. It is possible to climb the rock to the right of the flow (5.6, blocky) with rock gear.



Photos of Small Flow (right) Slideshow Add Photo
Brian Rolfson in thinner conditions, better than this year.
Brian Rolfson in thinner conditions, better than t...
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By Rob Quinlan
Feb 18, 2002

Returned to Hidden Falls for a crack at the steep mixed line to the right of the main flow. After a couple of warm-up laps on HF main flow, we set up a TR and worked the mixed line. Thin WI5 start leads to transition section of WI3 and then the steep finish on rock. Overhanging vertical crack is crux. Drytool placements on horizontal ledges and in the crack are key to pulling through the slightly overhanging crux. Finish is steep but good holds for hands and feet. Very strenuous but lots of fun. Could be led with shorties in the ice and rock gear for finish. Bring cams to 4" for crux. Solid v-thread at top of transition section (right side of bulge) offers retreat possibilities and at least some solid pro before crux. Has anyone named this short but fun route? Anyone led it to the top? Possible grade: M-5 in Jack Roberts grade scale.

By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2004

I led this line in the late '80s or early '90s. I didn't have any rock gear, so a stubby went in to the top of the skinny ice pillar (it was 10" wide or so and dead-ended when the rock goes overhanging), then I tied off the little stick that grows out of the overhanging wall and went for it. It wasn't too bad, because at the top, I was able to back-step to the hanging curtain when pulling on to the ledge.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 1, 2004

Today, due to less ice, there are 2 starts, both fun. The L line felt WI6, thin. The R felt WI5-, great hooks. Not enough ice to pro for cluckers like me. Can be TR'ed from the top off trees at 90ft. Rock finish in the crack/dihedral felt awkward & muscular M6+ (similar to Tic Tac, Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack, Secret Probation (thin conditions), Get a File. There is a bit of ice between the main flow & these R flows that looks hard.

By RalphE
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 3, 2010

Cimbed some verglass when formed on the rightish side of this wall then to the top via a short chimney and flake on the left side of the slightly overhanging dihedral, circa 1995. Somewhere there's a shot of Kevin Cooper climbing it in an Alpinist magazine.

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 19, 2013
rating: WI4-5 M5+

Best conditions we have climbed this line in quite a few years, WI4+ M5+, a few 17cm screws (possible stubbies depending on the year), rock gear from Metolius #2 - BD #3, great conditions now.

Do not take this lightly, personally rode the hanging lower curtain 20 feet to the ground in 2006.

Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.
Hidden Falls (right mixed line), 2/17/2013.