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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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S&M 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Carl Harrison, Scott Kimball, 1981.
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

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Bruce Hildenbrand starting the upper corner on S &...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a 150 foot pitch just 30 feet south of Chockstone. This one does not get climbed much, it has lots of loose rock and vegetation, also the pro is there but very thin at bottom and hard to find before crux. Start just left of Xanadu in a right-facing corner with no pro, traverse left after 10 feet into another, more pronounced, left-facing corner and cruise to the top and turn roof on left (sketchy pro) and get into fist crack in a left-facing dihedral. Cruise up this crack past 2 trees to rotten ledge (crappy belay), then scramble north to gully between Rincon and top of West Ridge.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 9, 2013
By Matt Robertson
May 29, 2001

I agree with the less-than-classic assessment of this route: the plentiful and sometimes annoying vegetation and occasional choss outweigh the adventure feel of spartan protection and routefinding (there was no chalk when I climbed this route). However, I did enjoy the belay ledge, if I found the correct one - slings around a block, with a deluxe seat and a view nearly as good as that from the top of the Yellow Spur (river straight below, snowcapped peaks to the west). Rossiter's book calls the pitch 150 feet; but a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground from the aforementioned rap station.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 17, 2003

I agree with the two previous statements. Did this on Sunday, guide book mentions walk off to the South. climbing Boulder correctly calls it north. rapped off a block, but the is a shrub with a sling on it that someone very, very light must have used earlier. no chalk to be found and very thin pro when it was there at all.

Bushes and poor top anchor make this less than classic.

By shad O'Neel
Jun 15, 2003

I disagree completely with these comments- except the ones concerning vegetation, which was plentiful on this route. The step across into the crack after the roof is reminiscient of [Gambit], a classic [Eldo] move. There was plenty of gear, and the climbing was fun. We passed the anchors for [Xanadu] and ended up at a ledge after powerful liebacking to avoid the dead tree that really wants to come down. A belay was appropriate (Again good gear at the crux) for the downtraverse (climbers right- pass [Xanadu] and keep going down) that felt [alpiney], despite the [Sunday] crowds. In my opinion, a fun 5.7 that reminded me of mountain climbing.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2003

I climbed this on 9/20/03, prior to seeing any of the above beta. There were some fun moves, but... the first 80 feet has sketchy pro, the tall dead tree is listing and ready to fall on your belayer (I opted for the power lieback too), and the walk-off to the South is loose and dangerous.

By Russell Oakley
Mar 24, 2004

I climbed this route today, and also found it fun. I stopped at the first good seat above the dead tree, and found an excellent tcu crack overhead for belay anchor. Since no pro on the bottom, my partner tried the 10 bit to the left, and soon weighted said anchor. He also reefed on the dead tree pretty good. It gasped, but held. I think a well placed karate kick will send it home. We found rappels up and left on trees.

By Tonya Clement
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2004

I climbed this today and really enjoyed it. During the run out sections at the bottom, there were great hand holds and good foot placements .... the rock felt pretty solid to me. As the route got a little more difficult, I was able to find more and more pro. Bring a couple long slings for the traverse. When my partner got to the top, it was a full blown snow storm (yep today). It was not at all obvious to us that we could walk off to the South. We found a two bolt rap anchor just South East of the top of the climb. We had to down climb just 4-6 feet to get to it. The 60 meter rope just barely made it to the ground.It was too cold and wet to look for the walk off that was not so obvious to me....

By Edward Jenner
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Jup, my first toprope fall at Eldo, and onto a hip belay at that! I thought it was an OK warm-up for the area, a solid 1 star - glad we did it, might do it again as a warm-up. Maybe we will try to find the bolts to the South next time. Are these at the top of Xanadu? I didn't see anything (and was looking), but if they are easy to get to, I'd recommend that decent.

Didn't see the block at the belay to rap off, but we had initially thought of doing the walk-off. Instead we rapped with double ropes from a tree 50ft to the north.

By Holly Barnard
May 4, 2004

Everyone in the immediate area of this climb should be wearing a helmet. The so called walk off ledge is completely choss and rocks tend to funnel down on top of Xanadu. We climbed it b/c it was the only thing open on a busy Sunday in the area, but next time I'll just wait in line for something worth doing,

There has also been some recent major rock fall/slide in this area. Use caution and be safe.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Some fun moves, especially in the upper corner.

The big dead tree is no more; little more than a push sent it to the bottom of the cliff today.

The easiest descent is the Xanadu rappel. Belay on the rotten ledge, bring up your partner, then traverse right and down about 20' to the bolted anchor atop Xanadu. From here, rappel 90' to the ground.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 7, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Do take care on the first 25 or so feet, as the protection is sparse...(does this deserve an "S" rating?)...and consider using passive protection behind the expanding horizontal crack, just before the first trend left.Also, at the top-sure, why not?-sling the cute little tree but back it up with a blue tricam in the wall to the right, then downclimb to belay at the 2 bolt anchor for Xanadu. The rope drag sucks, but it's the best idea.All in all, though, a good time. If you're up for it, start at the flake/thin crack immediately left of the start (As You Like It-10a). It's a short-but-cool variation...and there's pro!

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 7, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Oh, and Holly--not to be rude, but---Everyone should ALWAYS wear a helmet in Eldo! :)

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Dec 11, 2006

I thought this was a fun route with only one real move of 5.7, and although the bottom was a bit runout, I don't think it deserves an S. A good anchor can be had just above the last small dead tree stump in an overhang - just to climber's left and a little bit above the Xanadu anchors (easy to climb over and down to the anchors, just don't kick anything off).

By s.kimball
Feb 9, 2013

Sadly, my only FA in Eldo is a scary chosspile with a shitty anchor. Levin's wonderful guide should subtract S&M from his 5.7 classics tour.