Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

S&M / B&D 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S&M Chris Pendleton and Gary Olsen 1984 / B&D John Ross late 1990s? Allen Sanderson and John Steiger FRA 2012
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

S&M starts below the scooped out area, left of Jailbait, climbing past the silica snakes. A couple of fun moves before it moves up and right into Jailbait, 30 feet up (the original finish).

B&D finish (independent of Jailbait). After the business part of S&M rather than moving up and right to join Jailbait continue straight up to a short headwall with dish in it. After the dish, step left to a nice finger crack and continue up along the arete to a set of chain anchors. It is of similar difficulty and pro to that of Jail Bait.

Protection 

For S&M, micro-nuts, HB offsets, peenuts, etc. are necessary, if you can find the spots. For B&D similar gear as one would use for Jailbait, small/medium cams.


Comments on S&M / B&D Add Comment
Show which comments
By ddriver
From: SLC
Aug 26, 2014

FWIW, there's a thread where these are "discussed." mountainproject.com/v/bolted-r...
I would disagree that the bolts are on Jailbait, but there are now 3 or 4 bolts protecting the start to S&M.