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Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Unknown Right Arete T 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Pendleton and Gary Olsen 1984
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: New bolted routes. The left route has the same sta...


This starts below the scooped out area, left of Jailbait, climbing past the silica snakes. A couple of fun moves before it moves into Jailbait, 30 feet up.


S&M share the roof and above with Jailbait, so bring whatever you deem necessary for that part. Down low, micro-nuts are necessary, if you can find the spots.

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By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jul 16, 2012

After the business part of S&M rather than moving right to join Jailbait one can continue straight up to a short headwall with dish in it. After the dish, step left to a nice finger crack and continue up eventually joining the chains for Jailbait. We called this the B&D finish as it makes for a nice extension to S&M. It is of similar difficulty and pro to that of Jail Bait.

By John Steiger
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Yeah, this is better as essentially its own line, joining Climb and Punishment for only its last 10 or so feet (hence the two stars). The serious climbing protects better with HBs than regular brass or steel (Peenuts might work better too), but still a good chance they’ll rip and you’ll deck if you blow the crux.

Aug 25, 2014

Santa gave someone a drill for xmas. There are bolts all over this trad line and Jailbait. Who's gonna chop them first?

By ddriver
From: SLC
6 days ago

FWIW, there's a thread where these are "discussed." www.mountainproject.com/v/bolted-routes-on-penitentiary-wall>>>
I would disagree that the bolts are on Jailbait, but there are now 3 or 4 bolts protecting the start to S&M.