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S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.
Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.
BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.
Jason Halladay preparing to do business with the o...
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 2, 2009
Ah, and now the name makes sense. Thanks Dennis.