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Sly's Idea  

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Revely and Ajax Greene 1976
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Jake Hutchins on Nov 13, 2008
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Description 

This is a great hidden pitch above the third pitches of Granite jungle and Chieu Hoi. Climb the thin right facing corner past a fixed nut, then get ready for the business. follow a thin crack up a sloping ledge (funky), then pull a little roof with really thin fingers and bust to the top. Lots of fun and well protected, link it up with Granite Jungle or Chieu Hoi.


Location 

Up the ramp from the top of Granite Jungle


Protection 

gear up to 2'' small nuts and cams very helpful



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By Paul Davidson
Nov 13, 2008

Excellent climb.

Steve Grossman and I were told about this by Scott Baxter and thought we were bagging the first ascent in spring of '76. Even named it, Upon Bathing at Baxter's. Alas, we'd been scooped by a couple of months (weeks?) by those Colorado boys.

There didn't use to be a fixed nut on it :-)

I don't think this climb seems much traffic.
It's a bit hidden but well worth your effort to seek it out.

I think a day of cool obscurity would be to climb Deep Yogurt and then see if you couldn't get to this as a finish. Might be too far apart.

By KyleKent
Oct 21, 2009

Spectacular pitch. Good pro, great movement. Use this to make almost any route on the right side of the flying buttress 1 pitch longer. Recommended.

By Paul Davidson
Oct 22, 2009

Kyle, off the flying buttress ?
Maybe if you went down Coke Bottle, then up Deep Yogurt you'd be able to access it, but the pitch is really up above Chue Hoi. Don't see how you'd access that off of the FB. What am I missing?

By Paul Davidson
Nov 11, 2009

Yes, DLA is probably the most direct and best way to get there.

I think now that what Kyle was trying to say was you can access it from any climb on the cliff's right side. As I recall, you can probably get to this by walking down from above. It's on one of the small upper headwalls?

It's no where near the Flying Buttress, in terms of linked pitches.

By KyleKent
Nov 13, 2009

Paul, I meant anything to the right of the flying buttress, although it seemed like I said on the right side of the buttress. We did Dreamweaver all the way through then walked up to Sly's Idea. I simply meant it is a short walk over to add a pitch when you top out on the right side somewhere.