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T-Wall East
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Sly Willie Snores 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kent Ballew and Bear Thurman, 1989
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

What? No one had put in one of my favorite routes! This route epitomizes the best of T-Wall...techy face, burly roof and some creaky, crackly holds! The only sucky part is the drag over the lip (anchors are up and right). There are holds up and over the last lip; make sure you grab the "correct" one!

Location 

Just right of the junction where the trail meets the wall (right of Curb Sandwich) is a gorgeous orange face with a few bolts. Crank these then ape out the roofs above.

Protection 

3 bolts and a medium rack...heavy on the finger sizes.


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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2009

I've done this route a couple of times and think it's worth doing. However, I don't think it's a world class, best of T-Wall outing. IMHO, giving this route 4 stars diminishes true classics like Mrs. Socrates, Sugar in the Raw, Psychopath, Stepping Stone, etc. Good route? Yes. Great Route? No
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 28, 2010

How about "great" route for the grade?
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 1, 2010

If you don't think it's a four-star route, don't give it four stars. Complaining about how other climbers rate a climb is kind of lame.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 2, 2010

The goal of my comment wasn't to "complain" about how others rate routes but to express my opinion. Looking at MPs scale:
1 star = OK
2 stars = Good
3 stars = Great
4 stars = Classic

In my opinion, 4 star, "classic" routes should be special, world-class routes. They should be the ones that, if you're visiting a crag for a short period of time, must be done to really sample a given grade at a given crag. As such, the list of classics should be select and special to really differentiate the world-class gems. This doesn't mean that 1, 2, or 3 star routes aren't good or great routes in any way.

I'm a fan of Dave Pegg's Rifle book where he was very sparing in giving out the max stars. This makes it easy when visiting to identify the great (at least to him) routes.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 19, 2010

I agree, good route, but not the first one you should do. It stays drier than Sugar in the Raw, though, so that's useful.