Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
T-Wall East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Tension Span 
Abortion Contortion 
Ain't So Eazy 
Art 
Atom Smasher 
Bin Laden Been Fooled 
Bin Laden Been Fooled* 
Blind Date 
Blood on the Rocks 
Board Walk 
Brazen Serpent 
Bugs From Hell 
Cake Walk 
Can O' Worms 
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) 
Celestial Mechanics 
Centerfold 
Changnurdle 
Clip and Trip 
Competitive Edge 
Contents Under Pressure 
Corner Pockets 
Cota Coca 
Crackattack 
Crash Position 
Crazy Hooker 
Creaky Tweaks 
Curb Sandwich 
Day's Work 
Defcon Five 
Digital Display 
Digital Macabre 
Dirt Bag 
Don't Tell A Soul 
Electric Rats 
Exodus 
Exposed Aggregate 
False Alarm 
Fill in the Blanks 
Finagle 
Finger Lockin' Good 
Fly with the Falcon 
Garden, The 
Genesis 
Gift of Power 
Golden Gloves 
Golden Locks 
Gravity Creeps 
Guardian of the Gate 
Hands Across America 
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The 
Heaven of Animals, The 
Hidden Assets 
Hold Your Horses! 
House of The Rising Sun 
Hungry for Heaven 
I'm Late 
In Pursuit of Excellence 
Infinite Pursuit 
Jay Walker 
Let's Face It! 
Line Drive 
Lord of the Dance 
Love Handle 
March Hare 
Margin Of Error 
Margin of Profit 
Massive Attack 
Mean Cuisine 
Meeker Rat, The 
Mirage 
Molly and Rocket 
Motor Booty 
Mrs. Socrates 
Multiple Use Area 
My Lost China Doll 
Myth of the Spastics 
Nappy 
New Beginnings 
Night Shift 
No More Tiers 
Nutrasweet 
Open Sesame 
Paleface 
Passages 
People's Express 
Plastic Toys 
Point of Departure 
Points O' Contact 
Precious Orr 
Prerequisite for Excellence 
Puppy Ride 
Razor Worm 
Reptile Analysis 
Reptile Paralysis 
Restless Pedestrian 
Ruby Fruit Jungle 
Sanscrit 
Scamper Proof 
Seal Test 
Shiva's Last Dance 
Short Arm Inspection 
Sly Willie Snores 
Some Girls 
Southern Express 
Squatter's Rites 
Standard Deviation 
Steel Puppies 
Steeplechase 
Steepopolis 
Stepping Stone 
Stone Wave 
Sugar in the Raw 
Sun King 
Sunday Gardening 
Super Slide 
Surf's Up 
Sweep, The 
Time Takes a Cigarette 
Totem Pole 
Twistin' in the Wind 
Unknown 
Up in Arms 
Who Needs a Thnead? 

Sly Willie Snores 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kent Ballew and Bear Thurman, 1989
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 13, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

What? No one had put in one of my favorite routes! This route epitomizes the best of T-Wall...techy face, burly roof and some creaky, crackly holds! The only sucky part is the drag over the lip (anchors are up and right). There are holds up and over the last lip; make sure you grab the "correct" one!


Location 

Just right of the junction where the trail meets the wall (right of Curb Sandwich) is a gorgeous orange face with a few bolts. Crank these then ape out the roofs above.


Protection 

3 bolts and a medium rack...heavy on the finger sizes.



Comments on Sly Willie Snores Add Comment
Show which comments
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2009

I've done this route a couple of times and think it's worth doing. However, I don't think it's a world class, best of T-Wall outing. IMHO, giving this route 4 stars diminishes true classics like Mrs. Socrates, Sugar in the Raw, Psychopath, Stepping Stone, etc. Good route? Yes. Great Route? No

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Feb 28, 2010

How about "great" route for the grade?

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 1, 2010

If you don't think it's a four-star route, don't give it four stars. Complaining about how other climbers rate a climb is kind of lame.

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 2, 2010

The goal of my comment wasn't to "complain" about how others rate routes but to express my opinion. Looking at MPs scale:
1 star = OK
2 stars = Good
3 stars = Great
4 stars = Classic

In my opinion, 4 star, "classic" routes should be special, world-class routes. They should be the ones that, if you're visiting a crag for a short period of time, must be done to really sample a given grade at a given crag. As such, the list of classics should be select and special to really differentiate the world-class gems. This doesn't mean that 1, 2, or 3 star routes aren't good or great routes in any way.

I'm a fan of Dave Pegg's Rifle book where he was very sparing in giving out the max stars. This makes it easy when visiting to identify the great (at least to him) routes.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 19, 2010

I agree, good route, but not the first one you should do. It stays drier than Sugar in the Raw, though, so that's useful.