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Slug Wall
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Slugs R Us 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 74
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Sep 21, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: In the upper shadow there is a small roof. Above ...

Description 

Climb the crack negotiating a tricky move up higher right before a ledge. From the ledge work up through worsening rock past small gear placements (crux) - hard to see from the ground. Stemming may help, but whatever you do, the rock is not inspiring. A few easy moves to the anchor remain.

Location 

As you traverse the wall right passing some routes and making your way towards the ledge area on the right side of the wall, you will encounter this route. I believe there is a plaque. Sorry for the vagueness, not sure if I recommend this anyway due to the sketchy finish up top.

Protection 

Bring a variety - probably doubles - but makes sure you bring a 4" piece. Small gear is mandatory at the top (0.33", 0.4", maybe small nut).


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By slim
Administrator
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

spooky move up high for sure. i did it sort of left side in like a flaring chimney. my partner did it right side in more tips jamming. blue and black aliens iirc.