Slugg's Bluff offers some of the best face and crack climbing in the Marquette area. With a epic view of the Palmer Mine and the Palmer swamp, it offers the best fall climbing around. The face climbing is typically slabby, with nice edges. Beware of some loose rocks and vegetated rocks. Although not developed, this area will eventually see it.
All anchors need to be set up with gear or webbing. A few long pieces of webbing (50/75 foot) are required for top roping.
If you drive to the top of Slugg's Bluff, conciser staying for a night. There is an established metal fire ring next to the run down shed. There is pleanty of room for a few cars and tents. Access is unknown but locals on 4-wheelers drinking Milwaukee's Best told us it was legit (take that how you will)
I intend on establishing some rappel anchors, trad chains, and a few sport climbs winter/spring of 2010. Please contact me if more information if needed.
MORE ROUTES TO BE POSTED!!!
From Marquette: (20-30 min) Drive south down County Road 553. 5-8 minutes after Marquette Mountain, turn right on Co Road 480 at the stop sing. Drive west until you each a 4-way stop, turn left on road 35. Drive south. You will see the Palmer Mine to your right, you know you will be getting close.
Top access: (This road eventually becomes rough, so be wear) Right before you drive into the town of Palmer, turn left on Anderson Road/Co Road Mb. Continue down an old paved road until you come to a power line clearing. Turn left down a dirt road until you see the cliff
Bottom access: Drive into the town of Palmer. Turn left on Isabella ave. Go straight while Isabella ave joins Richmond Road/Co Road Mc. Keep going east. Turn left at Anderson Road/Co Road Mb. The Cliff should be visible. Park on the turn out next to the old house foundation. Follow a faint trail up to the bottom of the cliff.
One of the furthest climbs to the right, this is a popular crack. Mainly top roped, is a great trad lead as well. Start up the easy 5th class ramp to an off width. The crack spits, climb right. There are crux sections, have fun! Then climb up to easyer ground. ...[more]Browse More Classics in MI