Slow Children 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Carpenter, Pat McNerthney, Jon Nelson |
| Submitted By: | Jesse James on Apr 15, 2006 |
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heading in to the crux finishing moves of the rout...
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Description This splitter finger crack has its hardest moves at the very start and the very end, though is pretty continuous throughout. It follows a shallow corner that switches sides a few times. Start by traversing or directly mounting a flake in the left-facing corner. You can place a good piece here(.4 camalot), then make a strenuous move to get to good finger locks in a right facing corner. A short stemming section is encountered before the final splitter crack in a left facing corner. There are two finishing pitches to choose from. the left one, Timmy's Sandbox, is around 5.11-, and the right one may be 5.10.
Location The most popular way to get to this pitch is by taking godzilla, then Pitch 2 of city park. This dumps you right at the base.
Protection LOTS of small cams!!! Nuts don't work in this crack very well. I think I may have used 4 yellow aliens.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on SC
| BETA PHOTO: Climbers on SC
| Top of Slow Children. So classic!
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| Comments on Slow Children |
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By john stiles Sep 17, 2006
| one of the funnest pitches i've ever done! go do it! |
By Russ Jan 31, 2007
| The freight train crux makes the experience complete! I can not remember topping out without the train, you might want to hang out in the upper dihedral and wait for one to come so you may have the pleasure of doing the upper crux ...properly. |
By Ryan Triplett May 15, 2008
| Not a typo, but as for the significance ... I'm not sure. |
By Drewsky Dec 28, 2008
| The left pitch above Slow Children is about .11- and fun. It features easier climbing (.9-) up corners to moderate (.9/10-) slab climbing to a ledge. Above, harder climbing in a corner leads to the crux roof encounter (.11-) and crack climbing (.9) above. Some bolts; nuts and cams to 2 inches. I recommend being careful and using a 70m rope to descend to anchors below. The right climb is 5.9, I believe, and is technically the 4th pitch to City Park. I could be wrong about that, however. |
By michal Oct 29, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| Sloe children is a supper classic climb that to me is perfect. two sets of small cams would be great. pink tri cams are great too. |
By ldsclimber From: Queen Creek AZ Jan 13, 2011
| The best route I've ever been on!! |
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Jun 17, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| Superb pitch. And despite being a finger crack most of the way, the climbing is amazingly varied. If this is at your limit, bring alot of small cams. One could throw a truckload of blue, yellow, and orange mastercams at this thing (with the occasional smaller and bigger). The crack is quite parallel, and nuts will work - but you'll be working for them. You also get a few no hands rests, fortunately. Getting established in the crack was surprisingly balancely the way we did it - walking your feet along the ledge. And that first jam is just... out.... of ..... reach.... Enjoy! (60m rope is fine for rapelling this and P2 of City Park). Double ropes recommended for the last rap down Godzilla. |
By Jon Nelson Administrator Sep 19, 2011
| About the name of this route, it is "Slow Children", not "Sloe". The name was based on its proximity to City Park. The 1993 Clint Cummins guide had the name right (www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/index.htm), but Smoot and Cramer mistakenly thought the name referred to the rock band "Sloe Children", which had a hit at about the same time as the route went up. (Update, Sept 26: Route name corrected.) Terry and I cleaned the route off on a wet winter day in mixed rain and snow, and then we climbed it on a later sunny day in two parties. Terry had a gun-barrel wire brush that worked wonderful for cleaning the inside of the crack. Perhaps that's one reason the route stayed clean long enough to become popular. I think it's fantastic that the route has seen so many ascents. Enjoy the finger jams! |
By dscramer Sep 19, 2011
| In the guide Jeff and I wrote (1980s) and in Jeff's subsequent guide it was Slow Children. For some reason I thought it had to do with the band and changed it in Sky Valley Rock. I am pretty sure Smoot just followed my lead his latest guide. |
By Jon Nelson Administrator Mar 26, 2012
| The route "An act of strange boar" at Lookout Point is very similar to Slow Children, but shorter and slightly thinner. It's also right off the ground, so if you don't want to do the approach pitches for SC, you can quickly test yourself on Strange Boar. |
By earl mcalister From: SL,UT Dec 16, 2012
| This is the best pitch I've ever done, anywhere. The crack and gear is perfect (with some spice off the ledge), the scenes are beautiful, and the exposure is excellent. Can't recommend this enough. |
By CJC May 19, 2013
| The crack takes decent stoppers.BITD I took a 30 foot lob from the top moves onto one (damn train/firing range) and it held fine. |
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