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 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Crossfire S 
Cry Babies S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
Ginger Snap S 
Go Dog Go S 
Heinous Cling S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack S 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Slow Burn 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 36'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This bold line was the first route to venture above Karate Crack on the magnificent Karate Wall. The route was established in "Ground-Up" fashion, with all of the original bolts placed on lead, hanging from hooks. This was a common practice in the early 80's in areas such as Yosemite. However, to truly appreciate the boldness of this ascent, consider the (poor) quality of the stone on the upper half of the pitch.

In its current state, this route is still a bold undertaking, with massive runouts on very spooky rock, and bird's nests in key pockets. For this reason, this route is almost never climbed, even by the hourdes of topropers that monopolize the wall on a daily basis.

Rope drag on this pitch can be significant as the line wanders considerably, and even with the route's sparse protection you will be towing more than 30m of rope at the top.

Begin up Karate Crack. When the crack turns horizontal, head straight up to the first large hueco (as for Crossfire). If you desire, stuff a #3 Camalot in this pocket then head directly left to the other large hueco slightly higher and 8 feet left (as for Power Dive). Clip the bolt just above the hueco, (probably with a really long sling, unless you are using double ropes) then crank the crux move, a heinous crank on a sloping 2-finger pocket to a large rail. Traverse right along the rail, clipping Crossfire's 2nd bolt, then continue right-wards past Crossfire, to a dark brown, chalkless wall of creaking nobs and pidgeon nests.

The route continues, mostly from large pocket to large pocket, up and right, ever-steepening as you ascend. Pass two more bolts, then the final crux: crimping on rounded edges. A long runout leads to the final enormous hueco. De-pump and place a tipped-out #3 (or perhaps #3.5 or #4) Camalot in this pocket. 10 more feet on easing terrain lead to the last bolt, and a final runout on huge knobs and flexing flakes to the top of the wall.

In this day and age, it might make more sense (rope-drag-wise) to head straight up from Karate Crack, thru the Crossfire crux, then veer right, rather than climbing through the left hueco. However, the route was originally climbed as described above.


Location 

Karate Wall. Begin up Karate Crack, then follow the right-most line to the top. See above for detailed weaving beta.


Protection 

5 bolts, gear for Karate Crack, and 2 x #3 Camalot. (3.5 or 4 Camalot may work in the upper hueco).



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