Sloth 5.12c
| 782 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Brian McCray, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy Steck on Aug 4, 2009 |
| |
Heather on Sloth going into the crux moves
Add Photo Printer View
Description Difficult start with minimal footholds at a very shallow and short left facing corner. Figure out how to reach the obvious nice hold at the top of the shallow corner. Make another reachy move to a good hold and then traverse left about 6 ft to reach an awesome wide rail. From here, it's fairly easy moves on flakes to reach bolt 5. After the clip, reach up and right to reach a crimp and then increasingly positive holds, then traverse back left, trying not to barn door off a small flake below the overhang (crux). Use very small feet to make a big move to a jug and clip bolt 6. Continue up to the anchors.
Location This route is located approximately in the center of the Cirque. If you locate the obvious graffiti dihedral, head right for another 20 yards. Look for a chalky line that follows featured rock up and left.
Protection 6 bolts, shuts.
By Fred Gomez From: Lewisburg, WV Apr 1, 2011
| This route is totally awesome and different from the typical cirque route. Expect lots of crimps and sustained difficult moves the whole way. The only thing that would keep this route from being four stars is its short length, but the consistency of the moves (no fluff), makes up for that short coming. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Apr 4, 2011
| now, i found the bottom of this route a bit height dependent. if you're tall, you can just reach through the slopers to a flat jug. shorties gotta use opposing sloper gastons plus some gnarly hip/knee scum beta. rest of the route is fun, typical nrg big moves betweeen horizontals. |
By Blake Cash Nov 29, 2011 rating: 5.12c
| Definitely no hip scums, but I'm 5'11 and got a left hand side pull crimp, hit a right hand gaston, then brought up a right foot and just jumped for the jug...as did my 5'9 girlfriend. |
|