|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Taino on Dec 20, 2006|
|Comments on Slot Machine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
|I didn't see the "decent" gear as described above. It's an offwidth the entire way, with very little gear. A #5 is too small to protect the offwidth. I would not lead this climb, as I don't think it takes great pro. The climbing is easy (think lay back the entire way)and there are a couple of horizontals. But, you are going to solo a LONG way before you get in any pro. Fun to TR, good for moderately experienced newbs.|
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I didn't find the gear to be awful or terribly sparse. I placed 5 or 6 pieces, and the only real run-out was the first bulge. I think PG/13 is a fair warning. Not perfect, but also not a death defying lack of gear.
After the runout, a #2BD fits very well, tucked back underneath an outcrop in the crack. You could haul wide gear up, but it would seem a little silly. It's also a lieback, rather than OW, unless you like making things harder than they should be.