Slot Machine 

Great route that rewards small fingers at the crux "slot". Good gear, no reason to get hurt, but some spicy moves above the crux make for a good heart pumper. A lesser-gem that is a must-do for the 5.10 Red Rock leader. Only one rope is needed to get down. One rap to the first pitch anchor on Shadows then another short rtap into the stream.....

This is a good one! Good holds and stances appear when in doubt. I used small nuts and tcu's on the headwall part. Didn't need the brass.

Definitely got my heart pumping! And I definitely was happy to have my brassies along.

Oh, and calling this a finger crack, or as the Handren guide says, a "tips crack" is just ridiculous. Ther is like *one* (maybe two) finger locks. It's a seam/crack for protection, and 99.99% face climbing.

This is a wonderful pitch with an emphasis on skillful rp placements. I brought dmm offset brassies 1-5, and bd micronuts 2-5, and placed most of them. It seemed like half the placements were bomber, while the other half were decent. A fairly heady lead on sandstone...granted, the stone on this pitch is high quality. The movement is excellent and sustained at the grade, with only a couple of good rests. A very memorable climb!

I was very happy to have brass and microcams for this seam with occasional thin crack moves. Think I placed 10 on the pitch and glad for everyone. The crux moves were right off the smallest gear.