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 ADVANCED
Chaos Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-1 Bomber Dude S 
Evil Cheese Weiner S 
Sloppy Seconds S 
Time Machine Yogi S 

Sloppy Seconds 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 9, 2013

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Description 

Thin and technical slab climbing for much of the route keeps you on your toes, quite literally. Start up the first two bolts of B-1 Bomber Dude and then cut slightly left on small, shallow finger pockets and edges in the dark, sharp rock to a good rest at the horizontal break below the bulge above.
Bust through the moves and enjoy a slightly run-out but easier section to the anchors. The anchors are in need of additional screw links, 'biners or chain.

Location 

Furthest left route on the Chaos Buttress but starts on B-1 Bomber Dude.

Protection 

9 bolts to an annoying anchor setup. Unless more screw links or biners are added to this anchor, it's best to traverse right to the chains on the other route.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2013

As of July 2013 the anchors could use two additional screwlinks or leaver 'biners. As the setup was then, your rope would be crazy coiled if you lowered through the anchors. I traversed right to the anchors for B-1 Bomber Dude instead.