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Unsorted Routes:

Sloppy Seconds 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 9, 2003

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Description 

This pitch isn't so bad--it just needs some traffic. We originally did it as a ground-up lead with only three bolts in 30 meters, with the occasional shit-useless TCU, but Luke Laeser went back, cleaned some hanging daggers, and bolted the route properly, as it needed to be.

This route is downhill and to the north of the Corridor. Drop down the slidey gully, hook a left under a long, slabby cracked wall, and you'll find this long tan face, the right wall of a deep chimney/cleft. This is only the first pitch of an envisioned two-pitch line, which looks to get better on pitch two, which would also need to go ground-up given the staggering amount of stacked loose shit atop the crag.

Anyway, climb the long face on good square-cut edges, taking care with anything dagger-shaped or hollow, stepping left into an alcove at one point, then climbing up and right via weird chimneying-type moves to a two-bolt anchor at the start of some pretty stellar-looking silver stone.

N-joy.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).


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