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This boulder is sick and a complete power and core problem with techy balance and finesse, there are three crux's, first you go all the way back in the cave and sit on a obvious sit start rock with jugs in your face pull a couple fun moves to a big jug sloper and do a three foot drop down to another sloper (first crux) at that point you should be horizontal and both hands on lower sloper rail then the fun begins do some super core moves to the middle of the rail and be delicate here this is the second crux once you get you right hand on the only good hold to a big dead point to a awesome pinch then keep your core and composer and set a heel set up and do a huge four foot deadpoint to the jug(third crux) caution there is a tooth and it will bite you if you grab it wrong then bust a few fun moves on steep terrain and top it out and its over
From the black box in big bend look up the hill and you will see a lightning bolt like crack and off to the right you will see a cave and some chalk following the arete, pretty straight foward if you are lucky you will see some locals up there screaming cause its kicking their ass.
A couple pads and a few friends
From: Moab, UT
Jan 3, 2013
Originally, this problem was done on the flat edge/undercling one move back from the incut crimpers. I began working it this way and immediately started bringing huge blocks down on me. I believe that someone will eventually have the entire 'starting hold' in there lap.
I feel starting matched on the incut crimpers makes this a 4-star problem, and doesn't lower the grade. The rock quality for 95% of this problem is impeccable, and its my opinion that not only does the choss start severely diminish's the quality of this problem, it's also very contrived.
Also, since I was asked I'll clarify; if you stay on the high rail all the way till the end its a different problem (V5ish?). Great find and great FA Sticky.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
Jan 3, 2013
This is funny because I finally got around to trying this a couple of weeks ago, and my first thought was- Why is this cool climb being started buried in a hole on a chossy, loose jug surrounded by spiderwebs and rodent feces instead of simply starting two or three feet to the left on the obvious, solid crimp rail?
This line climbs well and the rock is quite good for the most part. I found the finishing move to the jug harder than I thought it would be!
However, I still don't get why one would take an obvious and beautiful, natural line and make it highly contrived by forcing a completely unnecessary drop down to the lower rail.
I understand the desire to create hard variations for the challenge and creativity they present. But, in this case, the natural line is the v6-ish line that uses the higher rail. Dropping down to the lower rail increases the difficulty but, in my opinion, diminishes the quality.
Still, props for the FA. Excellent rock and movement. Great find.