Slipping Into Darkness
||Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Ron Beauchamp, Gary Hicks, 6/18/1976 FFA: Hans Brede, Peter Prandoni|
|Season: ||August to February (due to closure)|
|Page Views: ||1,735|
|Submitted By: ||George Perkins on Oct 26, 2007|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
This is the beautiful, clean corner-to-roof third ...
|Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>|
Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. MORE INFO >>>
The cleanest line on the SW buttress of the Shield, with a couple of very memorable pitches around a giant roof. Note: Sandia Rock gives this route an 'R', but its topo only shows an 'R' for 5.8 pitches shared with Procrastination; the 5.10 leads protect adequately if you're comfortable with small pro. Pitch 1:
Start as for Procrastination
with a 5.8 boulder problem behind the aspen trees and the only giant boulder. Traverse left and angle up a 5.4 ramp to a 2-bolt belay. Other options on this start exist also. Pitch 2:
Move left 10' pull through a steep section (5.8). Move left to the arete and around the corner (5.8), or continue up the blocky prow and move left later on. A 2-bolt belay is reached below the clean open book. [According to the Hill guide, a 5.10 direct start could be used to reach the same point, probably in 2 pitches also] Pitch 3:
Follow 5.9 corner with stemming/chimney moves with one memorable bush to the corner below the roof, and set a hanging belay or link into the next pitch (watch for rope drag!). Pitch 4:
Traverse right just below the 20' roof, finding good pro underneath, turn the biggest 5.10 roof in the Sandias on the right (fun, .10c). Move up 10', just enough pro, swing left on a big hold to a bolt (.10c) or continue up the thin stemming corner (tiny nuts) to a good ledge. You can combine this with the previous pitch or the next pitch, but watch out for rope drag if linking pitches. Pitch 5:
Stem/lieback up thin corner (.10c) with enough good rests but small gear for pro to the biggest bush/tree visible, then traverse right along a ledge to the giant "bivi ledge" atop Chicken Chop Suey
or Procrastination. Slider nuts supposedly are nice to have on this lead. [In Hills' book, it suggests the original route moves left near the top of this pitch, and follows an independent 6th pitch of mid 5th class, joining Procrastination at the top of that pitch rather than at the bivi ledge.] Pitches 6-11:
Finish as for Procrastination, with a few options to choose from based on motivation and ability. The Odyssey
is recommended and is a reasonable choice for those able to send the 5.10 on Slipping Into Darkness.
This climb seeks out the open book on the prow left of the big offwidth crack in the Chicken Chop Suey dihedral and begins as for Procrastination and CCS.
Start behind the boulder in the aspen grove at the base of the talus slope. A water streak marks the beginning.
1 set nuts, including micros. Cams: 2 each from 0.5" (#0 TCU) to 1.5" (red camalot), 1 hand size cam, one #00 TCU or Black alien; slider nuts also are reportedly useful, but I didn't own any to bring.
Davito Hammack following the finger crack variatio...
Exposed and thin traverse moves on the second pitc...
Davito Hammack following pitch 4. We did a variati...
Davito Hammack nearing the end of pitch 2. We only...
Davito Hammack up high on SID where it meets Procr...
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 27, 2007
Its been many years since I did this, so my memory is hazy, but my impression was that this "10c" was quite a bit easier than other Sandia 10c's such as Mountain Momma or Great Escape. I think this might be due to the fact that 'Slipping' is less steep, and so, is less physical. Also, it seems Mountain Momma is much more sustained at the grade. 'Slipping" is basically 5.8 with one 5.10 pitch (and even that pitch isn't terribly sustained).
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 27, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Very interesting, Mono (Mike?). My partner on this one said that the crux on Mt. Momma is less difficult than the harder parts of this one. Sounds like I better get on Mt. Momma soon for some first-hand verification!
Nonetheless, I would agree that the crux sections on this route are over quickly and the angle is generally laid back.
Oct 26, 2012
Felt harder than Mountain Momma to me... Not sure how you can really climb the lower section in as few pitches as mentioned... I climbed well past the first pitch anchors to start, and could not have made the bolted anchors mentioned as the to finish pitch 2 without a ton of rope drag.