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Slippin' into Darkness 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mickey Craig, Tom Howard, Jim Dailey - 1973
Page Views: 2,384
Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 3, 2006
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Upper corner of slippin' at the crux.
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  • Description 

    Climb the obvious right-facing dihedral using locks, crimps and stemming. Mantle onto a ledge to find fixed rappel anchors.


    Small cams and stoppers, cams up to 2".

    Photos of Slippin' into Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
    Gavin climbing
    Gavin climbing
    Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'
    Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'
    Slippin' Into Darkness, 5.9
    Slippin' Into Darkness, 5.9
    Comments on Slippin' into Darkness Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 5, 2014
    By Chris Chaney
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Nov 6, 2006

    I thought this was much easier and there is a second pitch that takes you to the big ledge. The actual crux (about 5.6) is right off the belay ledge.

    All gear, except for the belays.

    By Jacob Neathawk
    From: Nederland, CO
    Nov 8, 2006

    I might be thinking of a different route....I think this one is also called Slipping Into Darkness? Or at least the one I tried to add to the database. It's only one pitch; are you familiar, Chris?

    By Nick Stayner
    From: The Magic City
    Nov 15, 2006

    Yes, there are three "Helmet Buttress" routes. I believe the standard is a 5.6 that starts in a right-facing corner on the left side of the helmet feature. "Helmet Variation" takes a runout 5.8 line more or less up the middle of the helmet, and "Slippin' Into Darkness" goes up the classic right-facing corner on the right side of the helmet. This one sounds like the one that's described in the description.

    By Chris Chaney
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Dec 27, 2006

    I did the 5.6 flake and continued to the big ledge. Didn't do any of the other variations.

    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Oct 25, 2008

    I find Slippin' to be quite easy for the grade - I think it's more like 5.8. Still, good fun for a few moves.

    By Harrison Dreves
    From: Nashville, TN
    Oct 28, 2010

    Leaving the belay ledge to start the second pitch can be rather intimidating. It's only rated 5.6, but protection is minimal and unseen. Look straight up and slightly left to spot a rusted piton. That's your first good protection.

    By John Saunders
    From: Cornelius, NC
    Apr 26, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    Was told that there were two variations and that I kept following the harder one. There's an easy escape to the face that is the soft 9 version, but was told that continuing to the very top of the crack to the crystal hold was more like 9+/10a

    By Rick Carpenter
    From: Banner Elk, NC
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

    Great route! Finished the last few moves in the rain. Pretty mellow for a table rock 5.9

    By Mike Holley
    From: Boone, NC
    Mar 13, 2012

    Excellent crack climbing, as far as it goes here in NC! Quality climbing with superb gear! A must do at Table Rock!

    By chris mcguigan
    From: belmont, nc
    Apr 14, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    The upper part of this climb is killer and felt like great 5.9 moves to me. I saw no pitons not sure what people are talking about it being 5.6

    By Jonathan Dull
    From: NC High County
    Mar 5, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    I wasn't to keen on this route the first time I climbed it, mostly because it was wet. Racked up to give it another go and have to say this puppy is fun and totally worth the lead. The first wide section before the ledge is mellow and takes good pro, while the second thin section is engaging until the anchors. Very fun climb.

    • Does anybody think the anchors on the ledge could use replacing?