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Slippin' into Darkness 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mickey Craig, Tom Howard, Jim Dailey - 1973
Page Views: 2,662
Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Upper corner of slippin' at the crux.

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the obvious right-facing dihedral using locks, crimps and stemming. Mantle onto a ledge to find fixed rappel anchors.

Protection 

Small cams and stoppers, cams up to 2".


Photos of Slippin' into Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
Gavin climbing
Gavin climbing
Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'
Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'
Slippin' Into Darkness, 5.9
Slippin' Into Darkness, 5.9

Comments on Slippin' into Darkness Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2014
By Jeff Gregory
From: Columbia, South Carolina
May 18, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
left a red stopper and an oval gate carabiner at the start of the top thin section right off of the rest ledge. dislocated my shoulder somehow on the first move off of the ledge while forgetting about the crucial finger lock in the crack. Tried twice after it locked back in place, but it was too weak. Sorry about leaving a piece! finders/keepers
By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 6, 2006

I thought this was much easier and there is a second pitch that takes you to the big ledge. The actual crux (about 5.6) is right off the belay ledge.

All gear, except for the belays.
By Jacob Neathawk
From: Nederland, CO
Nov 8, 2006

I might be thinking of a different route....I think this one is also called Slipping Into Darkness? Or at least the one I tried to add to the database. It's only one pitch; are you familiar, Chris?
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Nov 15, 2006

Yes, there are three "Helmet Buttress" routes. I believe the standard is a 5.6 that starts in a right-facing corner on the left side of the helmet feature. "Helmet Variation" takes a runout 5.8 line more or less up the middle of the helmet, and "Slippin' Into Darkness" goes up the classic right-facing corner on the right side of the helmet. This one sounds like the one that's described in the description.
By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Dec 27, 2006

I did the 5.6 flake and continued to the big ledge. Didn't do any of the other variations.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Oct 25, 2008

I find Slippin' to be quite easy for the grade - I think it's more like 5.8. Still, good fun for a few moves.
By Harrison Dreves
From: Nashville, TN
Oct 28, 2010

Leaving the belay ledge to start the second pitch can be rather intimidating. It's only rated 5.6, but protection is minimal and unseen. Look straight up and slightly left to spot a rusted piton. That's your first good protection.
By John Saunders
From: Cornelius, NC
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Was told that there were two variations and that I kept following the harder one. There's an easy escape to the face that is the soft 9 version, but was told that continuing to the very top of the crack to the crystal hold was more like 9+/10a
By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great route! Finished the last few moves in the rain. Pretty mellow for a table rock 5.9
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 13, 2012

Excellent crack climbing, as far as it goes here in NC! Quality climbing with superb gear! A must do at Table Rock!
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The upper part of this climb is killer and felt like great 5.9 moves to me. I saw no pitons not sure what people are talking about it being 5.6
By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Mar 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wasn't to keen on this route the first time I climbed it, mostly because it was wet. Racked up to give it another go and have to say this puppy is fun and totally worth the lead. The first wide section before the ledge is mellow and takes good pro, while the second thin section is engaging until the anchors. Very fun climb.

  • Does anybody think the anchors on the ledge could use replacing?
By Jed N
From: Raleigh, NC
Aug 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First part of climb to ledge is fairly easy 5.6-7. From ledge, the corner to top of pitch has a move or two in the 5.9 range.