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Slippin' into Darkness 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: Mickey Craig, Tom Howard, Jim Dailey - 1973
Submitted By: Jacob Neathawk on Nov 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Upper corner of slippin' at the crux.

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  • 2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb the obvious right-facing dihedral using locks, crimps and stemming. Mantle onto a ledge to find fixed rappel anchors.


    Protection 

    Small cams and stoppers, cams up to 2".



    Photos of Slippin' into Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
    Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'

    Jp finishing up the second corner of Slippin'

    Gavin climbing

    Gavin climbing


    Comments on Slippin' into Darkness Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Chaney
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Nov 6, 2006

    I thought this was much easier and there is a second pitch that takes you to the big ledge. The actual crux (about 5.6) is right off the belay ledge.

    All gear, except for the belays.

    By Jacob Neathawk
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 8, 2006

    I might be thinking of a different route....I think this one is also called Slipping Into Darkness? Or at least the one I tried to add to the database. It's only one pitch; are you familiar, Chris?

    By Nick Stayner
    From: The Magic City
    Nov 15, 2006

    Yes, there are three "Helmet Buttress" routes. I believe the standard is a 5.6 that starts in a right-facing corner on the left side of the helmet feature. "Helmet Variation" takes a runout 5.8 line more or less up the middle of the helmet, and "Slippin' Into Darkness" goes up the classic right-facing corner on the right side of the helmet. This one sounds like the one that's described in the description.

    By Chris Chaney
    From: Arvada, Colorado
    Dec 27, 2006

    I did the 5.6 flake and continued to the big ledge. Didn't do any of the other variations.

    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Oct 25, 2008

    I find Slippin' to be quite easy for the grade - I think it's more like 5.8. Still, good fun for a few moves.

    By Harrison Dreves
    From: Nashville, TN
    Oct 28, 2010

    Leaving the belay ledge to start the second pitch can be rather intimidating. It's only rated 5.6, but protection is minimal and unseen. Look straight up and slightly left to spot a rusted piton. That's your first good protection.

    By John Saunders
    From: Cornelius, NC
    Apr 26, 2011
    rating: 5.10a

    Was told that there were two variations and that I kept following the harder one. There's an easy escape to the face that is the soft 9 version, but was told that continuing to the very top of the crack to the crystal hold was more like 9+/10a

    By Rick Carpenter
    From: Banner Elk, NC
    Jun 18, 2011

    Great route! Finished the last few moves in the rain.

    By Mike Holley
    From: Boone, NC
    Mar 13, 2012

    Excellent crack climbing, as far as it goes here in NC! Quality climbing with superb gear! A must do at Table Rock!

    By chris mcguigan
    From: belmont, nc
    Apr 14, 2013
    rating: 5.9

    The upper part of this climb is killer and felt like great 5.9 moves to me. I saw no pitons not sure what people are talking about it being 5.6