Slippery When Wet
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
FA: | Kyle Rott, Cheyenne Chaffee Spring 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,309 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | harrison t on Sep 18, 2014 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Make a 5.10ish move off the deck past the first bolt. Continue past the next tastefully spaced 3 bolts on the featured rib to the left of 'the Rustlers' Clip the last bolt on the rib with a long sling and traverse left to the base of the steep water groove bulge.
You get a nice stance to suss out the very well protected crux (2 bolts) before you commit. Once past the fun crux moves, start placing gear in the horizontals/random seams through low angled juggy terrain. Exit left sometime before the big roof/last horizontal. (still juggy/low angled) Put in a little nest of smaller cams and make some exposed moves up the spine feature to the right of a water groove. Super cool finish! Belay off a big boulder.
Very cool route with a well protected crux surrounded by easier, but spicy climbing!
You get a nice stance to suss out the very well protected crux (2 bolts) before you commit. Once past the fun crux moves, start placing gear in the horizontals/random seams through low angled juggy terrain. Exit left sometime before the big roof/last horizontal. (still juggy/low angled) Put in a little nest of smaller cams and make some exposed moves up the spine feature to the right of a water groove. Super cool finish! Belay off a big boulder.
Very cool route with a well protected crux surrounded by easier, but spicy climbing!
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