Slippery When Wet
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Before climbing this route, I replaced 5 bolts and 6 hangers (leeper). The two additional bolts at the anchor were added by someone else.
This route is a great slab climb. It starts from the right side of the same ledge below the classic 5.7 dihedral. Scramble up to this ledge via the hand/ finger crack (5.5) or start farther to the right in the dirty right facing corner through a short section of OW.
From the right side of the ledge, climb the shallow left facing corner to just below the bolt out on the face. I placed a green alien before pulling out on to the face to clip the first bolt. Climb up and to the right of this bolt on some thin holds. Continue traversing up and right on some easier ground (5.8). It is run-out to the second bolt, but the climbing is easier. Climb straight up past the second bolt to a good stance and and undercling crack for pro. I placed a red alien, but the crack can accomodate several other sizes. It is possible to belay here (making the route two pitches) before tackling the difficult climbing. Climb straight up past your cam to the next bolt (an alternate 11+ finish follows the line of old bolts up and to the right), clip it and look up and left to your next bolt. I believe the crux is through this next section of climbing. Traverse up and to the left climbing on thin edges and smears. This section is a tad run-out but I can attest to several clean 20+ foot whippers, with rope stretch (running my ass off backwards). Desperately clip the next bolt and fire up through the next three bolts that are less sporty in spacing, the climbing is continuously difficult here and steeper. From the last bolt run it out up to a ledge, stay alert because the run-out climbing isn't completely trivial.
There is a bolted rap anchor at this ledge. A double rope rap gets you to the ground. Alternatively, you can belay and do a second (or third) pitch up past a couple of more bolts to the top and walk off.
Very worthwhile climbing.
A couple of small to medium cams, six protection bolts and a bolted anchor.
Keen Butterworth and Tara Reed on pitch one.
Keen on the super technical 2nd pitch.
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