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Routes in Super Slab
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Fallen Goat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forgotten Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Goat Heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heart of Darkness S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Open Heart T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Slippery Slab T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slippery Slope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Super Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Super Slab Ice T WI2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Glen Kaplan and James Garrett, September 2007, ooo on pitch 5-7 |
| Page Views: | 2,214 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
(AKA Girlfriend Route) This route will continue on above it's present high point, however, it already extends the Smoot Brother's excellent Slippery Slab route to make a long slab route addition to Little Cottonwood canyon's Super Slab. All pitches were climbed traditionally from ground up.
Pitch #1-Pitch #4: Climb Slippery Slab and see the Smoot details on that route. 5.9
Pitch #5: Continue straight up from the last pitch belay of Slippery Slab passing several bolts. Some memorable moves, but generally gets you to the better climbing up higher. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #6: A dirty pitch, but not that bad. Look for bolts you may still have trouble finding. Trend first right, then left through some easy overlaps and eventually hit the two-bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #7: Look for the next bolts. Climb past some bulges on the slab to a belay off to the right where a ledge has been cleared. 5 bolts, 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #8: From the belay, move left to the tree and climb thin slab to the first bolt. Run out, but EZ climbing takes you to another two-bolt belay on a good ledge. 4 bolts 5.7+, 30m.
Pitch #9: The money pitch thus far! Climb the weak groove to the steeper slab. Traverse up and right to small knobs and continue up the slab past easier climbing to a two-bolt belay. Some run out sections, but well protected where the difficulty is concentrated. Have your slab shoes and skills on for this pitch! Exciting climbing of good quality. 9 bolts, 5.10b,R, 50m (This pitch has been Red pointed only once...would like to get other opinions about grade!).
Pitch #10: Hours of cleaning yielded a nice finger crack/dihedral up this next section of the slab. Protects well with small gear and continue following the crack until it traverses left under the roof to a two-bolt belay. Upper exploration revealed exfoliating and deteriorating granite. 5.10, 40m.
Pitch #5-#8?? belay anchors installed by ooo prior to this climbers arrival. Thankyou for the Stainless Steel huge bolts!
Rappelling the route with two ropes recommended, but skipping some of the belays may be possible 10-9-7-5-4-2-ground
Pitch #1-Pitch #4: Climb Slippery Slab and see the Smoot details on that route. 5.9
Pitch #5: Continue straight up from the last pitch belay of Slippery Slab passing several bolts. Some memorable moves, but generally gets you to the better climbing up higher. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #6: A dirty pitch, but not that bad. Look for bolts you may still have trouble finding. Trend first right, then left through some easy overlaps and eventually hit the two-bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #7: Look for the next bolts. Climb past some bulges on the slab to a belay off to the right where a ledge has been cleared. 5 bolts, 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #8: From the belay, move left to the tree and climb thin slab to the first bolt. Run out, but EZ climbing takes you to another two-bolt belay on a good ledge. 4 bolts 5.7+, 30m.
Pitch #9: The money pitch thus far! Climb the weak groove to the steeper slab. Traverse up and right to small knobs and continue up the slab past easier climbing to a two-bolt belay. Some run out sections, but well protected where the difficulty is concentrated. Have your slab shoes and skills on for this pitch! Exciting climbing of good quality. 9 bolts, 5.10b,R, 50m (This pitch has been Red pointed only once...would like to get other opinions about grade!).
Pitch #10: Hours of cleaning yielded a nice finger crack/dihedral up this next section of the slab. Protects well with small gear and continue following the crack until it traverses left under the roof to a two-bolt belay. Upper exploration revealed exfoliating and deteriorating granite. 5.10, 40m.
Pitch #5-#8?? belay anchors installed by ooo prior to this climbers arrival. Thankyou for the Stainless Steel huge bolts!
Rappelling the route with two ropes recommended, but skipping some of the belays may be possible 10-9-7-5-4-2-ground
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