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The Mordor Wall
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Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) 
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Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Ryan Barber on Aug 2, 2011
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Continue right after the bolt as you would for at the start of Apocalypse, and follow the dike up and right around a corner. Instead of continuing right up the dike as you would for Apocalypse, sling the tree and go straight up and left into the corner and over the bulge onto the ledge. Anchor onto the fixed anchor above the block and continue either on Diagonal or Apocalypse as you see fit.

If you want, you can move left and hop back onto Standard Route.

This route was climbed after a thunderstorm as a variation to Repulsion because the leader did not want to slip on the 5.8+ beginning. Instead he traversed right into the unknown, and made his way up this "slippery corner" unsure if his feet would hold against the wet and dirty smears.


Start up the dike to the left of the Standard Route chimney that begins both Apocalypse and Repulsion.


Medium nuts and a #3.5 friend plus standard rack for Apocalypse / Diagonal.

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