Slip Me A Roofie
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route and prep work
Obvious crack up the middle of the face. Starts off in a hand crack then quickly widens to a short off-width that quickly turns into a small chimney that leads to a roof. Traverse 6-8 ft on good holds and pull the roof to a 3 bolt anchor. Even with a few hours of cleaning the route is still fairly dirty but will clean with future ascents.
It is possible to toprope the climb by scrambling up the backside at about 5.4 or so and doing a short (10ft?) rappel to the climbs anchors. Leader should leave a good directional in the roof for anyone following or top roping the route.
Go just past Mile Marker 1 on Highway 128. Climb is on a semi detached pillar on the right side of the road almost directly across from the information Kiosks.
Our rack and what I would recommend was (In Camelots) #1,#2,(2)#3,Old #4,(4)#5,#6.
You could bring an additional #2,#5, and #6 if you like to really sew things up.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 13, 2011
the route is stellar and sic. great fun, steep, wild, airy moves at the top. close to town. save a #5 camalot for your last bomber piece. #6 below that is good but not great. then 5s or tubes below that. the bottom half is clean, the top half is a little dusty, not bad. easy enough to top out if you want and then rap back down to the anchors. the approach is about 2 minutes. 3 bomber 1/2 inch bolt anchor. enjoy. really need traffic to get consensus on the grade.