Slip and Slide 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Alan Nelson and Kurt Smith, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on May 1, 2001 |
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In 1995 with Jim G., et al.
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Description Slip and Slide begins just left of the little ramp on the right side of The Red Slab. Bee line up to the anchors on a lot of 5.10 climbing. I was never quite sure if this route had any distinct crux. It seems a bit harder to start, but the moves are fairly uniform overall. There is a little left traverse at bolt 5 that seems a bit reachy. Other than that, just stay on your feet and enjoy some Ol-Fashioned-Slabbin on Alan's beefy bolts. Good stone, good clipping stances, lots of fun moves. Slip and Slide does not seem as spooky as some of the routes on the left side of the crag, It also shares an anchor with Pink Slip and this anchor is well positioned to top rope both routes. Two stars for continuity, bullet proof stone, and the good climbing.
Protection QD only. This 85 foot route needs 7 - 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Excellent slab climbing!
| Best route at Red Slab, Mike Keegan on "Slip and S...
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| Comments on Slip and Slide |
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By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Aug 24, 2001
| Great Route! Finally climbed it yesterday. Thanks Alan for the new bolt as the runout up to the first bolt had kept me off this for years. I'd argue for 3 stars (or more). It's definitely the best 5.10 on the wall. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
| Best route on the crag. |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 8, 2003
| The third bolt (I think) before a serious runout is a spinner. If you don't want to run it out between a few of the higher bolts, take a few small to medium nuts (sorry can't remember the exact sizes I used) and a yellow Alien or something of equivalent size (you'll know when to use it). I placed the Alien and two nuts from comfortable stances. Agree that this is the best route on the crag - more sustained (with exception of "[Pink Slip]") that the others. Classic face moves on beautiful, unbroken rock. |
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Jan 10, 2004
| Unless I'm wrong, "and I'm never wrong", that looks like Jim Garber in the photograph - slummin' if I know this guy. Jim may be the only guy who can climb 5.13 just like he climbs 5.7, slooow and steady ! |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Jun 9, 2009
| Definetly the best 5.10 on the wall but don't expect closely spaced bolts. |
By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Mar 7, 2010
| Me being me, I placed 6 pieces of gear--a red Camalot and a micro cam around the 3rd bolt, a couple of pieces higher, and two small wires at the last moves. I ended up in that "alcove" with the old bolt and had to make a 10 long step left to get back on line. Is that the route? The description mentions a reachy traverse left. Climbing straight up looked pretty hard, and the holds led up and right. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 7, 2010
| Ivan. I have done the same regarding the additional pro between bolts. Glad I am not the only one. I am pretty sure when Alan put these lines up he may have done similar, as these were equipped on lead! What a stud. |
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