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Dec 13, 2009
My rack consist of Trango Flex Cams that are about 7-8 years old now and Iím thinking itís time to have them reslung (maybe should have done it a couple years ago). Anyways Iím wondering if I even need the sling permanently attached. I almost always attach a shoulder sling to them anyways so Iím wondering why add an extra potential point of failure. The only reason I can think of is ease of racking. Anyone know any other reason the sling needs to be there. Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
427 points
Dec 13, 2009
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
I know somebody who bought a new set of BD Camalots and cut their slings off them. He then had someone tack 24" slings on them. When he racks, he just thirds them up (like most people do with their 24" slings) and clips them to his harness/gear loop. He's a guide and claims it makes his and his client's life a little easier. Personally I didn't really like climbing with them (they're quite bulky), but to each his own.

--Marc
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Dec 13, 2009
Camalots info tag says you lose 2Kn if you clip directly to the loop with no sling.. but if you sling it every time then that shouldn't matter. Only thing i could see if you beating up the loop a bit more than usual with biner instead of just nylon on it Jake D.
From Northeast
Joined Nov 23, 2006
477 points
Dec 16, 2009
My kinda simian
I can't find a cite to back me up, but I believe the issue is that the biner, when clipped directly to the thumb loop, has a much smaller surface area and a tighter radius than the sling. Especially with the new Camalots that have two layers of sling around the thumb loop. So I think you will lose the 2kN even if you clip a sling into the thumb loop. It's only 2kN, but then again, if you could make your gear 2kN stronger, would you? Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Jan 13, 2010
First climb after knee surgery
Rschap wrote:
My rack consist of Trango Flex Cams that are about 7-8 years old now and Iím thinking itís time to have them reslung (maybe should have done it a couple years ago). Anyways Iím wondering if I even need the sling permanently attached. I almost always attach a shoulder sling to them anyways so Iím wondering why add an extra potential point of failure. The only reason I can think of is ease of racking. Anyone know any other reason the sling needs to be there.


Simplicity.... why nearly always use another sling. A lot of people extend EVERY piece mindlessly even if the pitch is dead vertical. Doesn't make sense. All you are doing is (a) extending your fall length and (b) taking extra time and energy to place gear and c) carrying extra gear.

If it makes sense to extend the piece (ie: due to a wondering line, a traverse, ensuring a fall doesn't result in hitting a ledge, corner, lip of a roof) by all means but if the line doesn't warrant it, keep it as simple as possible.
chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Joined Jul 24, 2006
269 points
Jan 13, 2010
ICE PIT 2011
You cam placements may walk a bit more without slings... Depends on the rope travel. sunder
From Alsip, Il
Joined Apr 19, 2009
844 points
Jan 13, 2010
Dan on Hurricane
Without slings I would think that your cam placements may walk/move more if not attached with another sling. I know that as I climb more difficult routes, it is very reassuring to be able to plug in the cam and go without having to put an additional sling on it. Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Mar 22, 2006
2,014 points
Jan 13, 2010
It depends on what youíre climbing. I use shoulder slings for rope run when the rock isnít straight or there are roofs, etc. Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
427 points
Jan 14, 2010
not climbing
Save that re-slinging cash and put it toward a set of C4s Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,560 points
Jan 14, 2010
I am a neandertal.
Mark Roth wrote:
Save that re-slinging cash and put it toward a set of C4s


I just got 20 cams reslung for $90, which is a little more expensive than a single brand new #4 size C4.. hmmm 20 cams, or 1 cam...
Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Joined Apr 24, 2008
46 points
Jan 14, 2010
not climbing
20
Then sell the old ones on here...
Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,560 points
Jan 14, 2010
I am a neandertal.
Mark Roth wrote:
20 Then sell the old ones on here...

touche
Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Joined Apr 24, 2008
46 points
Jan 14, 2010
I believe Yates will resling with a doubled 12" runner, which may be another option. One problem with removing your slings is with deep placements on smaller cams the upper biner will often get in the way and keep the cam from seating properly. Also if a carabiner gets wedged in the crack it is going to be much weaker as a fall will cause cross-loading.

Although it seems like you might be saving weight catting your slings I think in the end you will have to bring more carabiners (on your runners) which will more than offset weight savings.
Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2002
646 points
Jan 14, 2010
Axes glistening in the sun
I have some metolius cams that are older that I cut the slings off last year and girth hitched new ones on. I have a #3 camalot that I did the same to and I have fallen on them and well I am still here to write about it. May not be the best, but it was quick, and cheap. "H"
From Manitou Springs
Joined Feb 13, 2006
59 points
Jan 14, 2010
ICE PIT 2011
I do agree that smaller cams should have a longer sling 8" to 12".... Sometime that first carabiner just gets in the way. sunder
From Alsip, Il
Joined Apr 19, 2009
844 points
Jan 14, 2010
Me
Coeus, Where did you get your cams re-slung? John Calder
From Spokane, WA
Joined Feb 16, 2007
246 points
Jan 14, 2010
I am a neandertal.
John -
went through yates. you print out their worksheet, write down all the cams you want reslung. tell what type of material (nylon or dyneema), what color you want for each, and if you want single length $4.75, or double length $5.75. I talked to the person who was going to resling them and that way he knew to look out for them in shipping. i think he even offered to call if he didn't get them.
turn around was like a week, or week and a half (me and a buddy sent in around 40 cams in all to get reslung, so they don't mess around).
overall, i was pretty psyched with the whole process.
Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Joined Apr 24, 2008
46 points
Jan 15, 2010
ICE PIT 2011
I sent my Black Diamond Cams back to BD to get reslung... it was like $5 a cam... I don't think do the custom lenght slings, but i also didn't ask. 2 week turn around with ground shipping... The same for metoulis, but they even clean them for me! sunder
From Alsip, Il
Joined Apr 19, 2009
844 points
Jan 15, 2010
Kevin Stricker wrote:
I believe Yates will resling with a doubled 12" runner, which may be another option. One problem with removing your slings is with deep placements on smaller cams the upper biner will often get in the way and keep the cam from seating properly. Also if a carabiner gets wedged in the crack it is going to be much weaker as a fall will cause cross-loading.



That is probably the best answer I heard so far. I can get behind that logic.
Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
427 points
Jan 15, 2010
Mark Roth wrote:
Save that re-slinging cash and put it toward a set of C4s



That is probably the worst answer Iíve heard so for, why would you replace something unless there was something wrong with it. Snob.
Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
427 points
Jan 16, 2010
not climbing
I know it's not the most economical answer, but I'd rather have c4s. and I guess I am a gear snob, sorry

If your cams are fine, and you like them, re-sling them...
Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,560 points
Jan 16, 2010
Sell them on MP and replace them with knotted webbing, save on weight and you can increase range of any piece by making the knot larger or slinging one through a head hole in the other, now you can be the most silent partner at the crag and your new rack will cost you $20 in webbing. Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Joined Mar 6, 2008
2,900 points


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