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Slime of the Century 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,079
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Slime of the Century follows the five bolts on the...

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!

    Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.

    Location 

    Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"

    Protection 

    Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.


    Comments on Slime of the Century Add Comment
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    By MauryB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2007
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.
    By C. Archibald
    Jan 19, 2015

    -According to Tony Mayse, the first ascent was Duane Raleigh and he originally led this thing on gear, which is both astounding and terrifying.

    -For the piece above the last bolt, I placed an X4 .3/.4

    -The feet aren't "sometimes slick if it's been raining." They are slick as snot even when it's dry as dirt.

    -This is a very safely bolted route for the Wichitas. I fell all over it. I look forward to working for the send.
    By Terry Andrews
    Feb 27, 2015

    Duane's ascent was totally sick. He gave Tony Wilson permission to bolt it and IMO created a fantastic route. I always carried a #2 or #3 TCU for that last part because it would be terrifying to fall there on the last bolt!!
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