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Slient Partner - Tips and Tricks

Original Post
sunder · · Alsip, Il · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 805

I just picked up a silent partner and would like some tips and tricks that work well with using the device.

One issue that i have had is after a fall, it takes a ton of force to get the clove hitch to feed again. This could be the rope im using not sure.

Also what rope do you use?

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Tip #1, make sure you have the clove on the tie in side of the device, if upside down you will never have fun. #2 only use a single backup knot, having a dozen knots hanging from your harness is no fun either. #3 Make sure your shirt or stoppers do not feed into the device. #4 I prefer 9.7 but you can take it down to 9.1. Problem with the super skinny ropes is single line rappelling after leading each pitch will wreck the ropes pretty quickly. Generally the sheath will separate from the core and bunch up at the end of the rope. Look for cords that are pretty stiff, super soft ropes will cinch down on the device and short rope you more often. #5 Don't fall...when you do it helps to work the knot out of the SP by pulling up on the slack and reversing the cam ( which causes it to release) then reweighing the rope and lowering a bit.

John Martin · · Midvale, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 35

Hi, I don't understand tip #1 the part "make sure you have the clove on the tie in side of the device". I didn't think either side of the clove hitch made a difference on the device. Can anyone clarify what this means?

Regarding the rope diameter, the manufacturer recommends 9.8mm - 11.0mm. I wonder if 9.1mm is too thin and could potentially fail, (especially if the rope is wet).

I'm in the market for a new rope because my old 10.2mm rope creates way too much drag, making it impossible to lead. I would like to know what is the "ideal" rope for this device. I figure that a thinner rope (9.8) with dry coating and a less friction sheath would work, but what rope meets this criteria? What brand and type? I prefer 60 or 70 meter with bi-pattern.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

The SP has a top and bottom, the top is where the device clips into your harness. If you make the clove so it is facing down ( loops over the top knot body below) the device will never feed properly.

9.1 is the smallest diameter that Blanchard (the inventor) has tested the device down to and it works. I don't use smaller than a 9.7 generally because I find that single line rappelling on smaller diameter cords wrecks them quickly. I currently have been using a Blue Water 9.7 with good results for a couple years. Also really like the 10.1 Sterling Marathon ( about the same weight/size) and have had good success with Mammuts in the same size range.

Dry ropes work great, you also want a slightly stiffer hand, Beal's IMO are too soft and tend to bind up.

Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

Also if the clove hitch is upside down and you fall, the two little stopper bars on the bottom will rip off as the rope becomes weighted. I have had this happen to me before in a momentary lapse of awareness while rigging my SP. This will not affect its ability to catch a fall but it is still not a good thing to have happen. I too prefer a larger rope (9.7-9.9). I generally use my mammut tusk, 9.8 and it works great. It is stiffer and lends itself to feeding easily. To release after a fall I weight myself on an ascender. this allows me to then pull up some slack and work the knot out with relative ease. I would also agree with the single back up knot. put a loop of about 12-15 feet attached with a clove hitch to my harness. Good luck and have fun with it. That little device allowed me to have an amazing 3 day trip up Lunar X this year when a partner was no where in sight!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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