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Slicer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown, mid-'80s
Page Views: 1,410
Submitted By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Mar 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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Getting to the roof may be the crux if you're shor...

Description 

This route is located at the far west end (left side) of Cactus Cliff on the face just left of Crynoid Corner. It is listed as the first route in the Thompson guide, but Spray Lord is a new route just left of Slicer. Once a scary lead, Slicer has been retrobolted and can be led using only bolts.

I would divide this route into two distinct sections with the first being much better than the second. The route starts with a small roof that you kind of have to thug over, probably easier for taller people. Many variations here depending on if you are on TR or lead, height, preference of holds, etc. Gain the face and climb fairly fun rock to a large ledge. Continue up the center of the second face to the anchors. The second section of climbing seemed to be way easier than the first.

It is possible to TR this route after climbing Crynoid Corner.

Protection 

7 bolts to an anchor.


Photos of Slicer Slideshow Add Photo
Slicer, 5.10.
BETA PHOTO: Slicer, 5.10.
Meaghan on the bouldery start.
Meaghan on the bouldery start.
Meaghan grabs the onsight.
Meaghan grabs the onsight.

Comments on Slicer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich Kelly
Sep 21, 2005

Seems this climb has been rebolted and now sports 7-8 bolts making it a safe climb. The crux is pulling up to a stance above the initial overhang. There is another spot at the top of the initial wall that makes one pause. It looked like one could go up either right or left. There is a good hidden hold on the edge if one goes left.
By climberz
Jan 7, 2008

If the name didn't give it away, this is very sharp.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jan 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Getting to first bolt not as bad as it looks from below.
By R. Wilson
Jun 8, 2009

Watch out for big, unstable rock about halfway up the route, to the climber's right.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 10, 2010

Fun route but definitely height-dependent crux. My 6' friend pulled up under the roof and grabbed the key hold up high. I had to do a much more serious intermediate move to gain the same hold. There's a second crux up high that is also height-dependent but easy to circumvent. In fact, I think going straight up on this upper section takes this climb past the .10s.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The anchors are horrible on this route. I was terrified after top roping this route after my partner. They are so far apart. He used 20cm draws and they were pulled almost totally horizontal. I used double length runners to try and lessen the angle. If you plan on having someone TR this bring some longer runners to make it better angles.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 21, 2011

I think this is rated 10a in the D'Antonio guide. It seemed really hard for 10a. Amazingly sharp up higher, including the horizontal surfaces of some big jugs.
By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Jul 18, 2011

The opening crux over the roof is the only section worthy of the 10a rating the Thompson guidebook gives it. Lots of rests on ledges after the intital push. I agree with mtnmicah83... bring some long runners if you're going to top rope. I used 60cm slings to build an anchor for TR.
By Igoreka
Jun 29, 2014

Just ascended this climb, and the top left anchor is loose in the rock. After setting up a top rope and rappelling down, my weight (180 lbs) makes the bolt of the anchor wobble in the rock about 2-3mm.

Def. do not recommend using this climb for top roping or climbing it till the anchor is replaced; however, the right top anchor is solid.

Loose anchor - left.
Loose anchor - left.
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Nov 30, 2014

It's possible to start on the route to the left and traverse in to the second bolt of Slicer to skip the initial roof. This variant is still difficult but balancy rather than thuggy.