As the guide says; Very Steep and sustained figer stacks through a small roof. Featured on the of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I will suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But hafter 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.
From the base of the buttress head to the left and around. It is the climb before Layaway Plan. You can't miss it, because when you walk by you say to your self 'Oh My God, I got to get on that'
For the BD crew: 8 to 10 green camalots and 2 or 3 one camalots.
For the WC crew 8 to 10 1.5 friends and 2 to 3 2.0 friends.
|By Timmy! Tormey|
From: Fakeville, USA
Aug 23, 2006
You get 2 really good hand jams, one below the roof and one past it in the pod. Also, don't bring that much gear. Remember an orange tcu size for after the pod and the rest is .75s(9 max). If you don't have that many then you can definitely fit 1, maybe 2 #2 friends, but no #1 camalots.
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
8-#.75 camalots, 1-#2 friend (below the roof in a pod) and a yellow alien when the crack thins at the top.
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Dec 1, 2008
I thought the crux was placing gear on the first half of the route. Having to place thoughs cams with almost all my wait on one stack was some what unplesent
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
it is easy to look up at the roof and totally overlook the start, which is tougher than it looks. i thought the crux was getting to the first hand jam. placing gear off of a big 3 fingered thumb stack, or in some cases a very tight hand jam with slippery feet was kind of intense. a very do-able route thought, as you can break it down into realistic sections.
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 12, 2010
I felt the crux was down low where the feet blank out- the roof is hard but has good feet.
|By Scott Bennett|
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Agree that this route is not as hard as it looks. There end up being quite a few good rests, including a no-hands if you step right about 20' up. Still a great route!
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 30, 2010
The anchors should be replaced soon. The hanger on the left bolt spins but may only need tightening. The right bolt, however, wiggles easily if you test it with your fingers. Until these bolts are replaced or beefed up, if you want an added measure of safety, just take along an extra .75 camalot or equivalent to back up the anchor. Just a heads up, have fun!
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
couple notes from doing this route again recently. you can pretty much place .75 camalots anywhere on the route. if you don't have a pile of these, then there are some other options. i used only #2 friends to get up to the first pod, and then .75 camalots above. you can also use anwhere between a .3 camalot and .5 camalot above the 2nd pod. this will help save those .75's, which will be trying to fly off of your rack and into the crack.
this would be a great first IC 12, or a good one if you are a strong sport climber who hasn't done a lot of crack climbing. you can easily break it down into several sections with great rests. also it is short and has good stances for placing gear and then shooting for the next stance.
normally i'm not really into repeating routes, but this one is a lot of fun and i would do it again.
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2012
very gorgeous climb